By Land, Sea and Sky

From the Ice to the Earth

2012-02-13T06:17:00.001-05:00

After one hundred and sixty-eightdays, nearly six month, I have departed the Ice for the living land to thenorth. As I write this, I sit at awindow seat on a New Zealand Air Force Boeng 757. My little GPS tells me we’re currently flying at 538 mph,altitude 33,500 feet, heading 004° True, and after just over twohours of flying more than 1,000 miles from McMurdo. As excited as I have been to have managed to draw a windowseat, I’ve been disappointed to have an overcast sky shielding the continentand its waters from me for almost the entire flight. I was hoping to scout the sea route for future expeditionsof maybe someday living the dream of actually sailing myself to theAntarctic. But alas, the continentis a harsh one and so is its weather.

So instead of staring out thewindow, planning how I am going to someday navigate my ship through the packice like Shackleton and Amundsen, among others, I think about the last sixmonths and the continent we leave to our stern.

I sit on the plane and look upfrom the computer and see over a hundred heads, mostly contract workers, havingcome down to the ice for 4 to six months, some perhaps maybe even a year. Now we all head home (or at leastnorth) to friends and families, to other jobs, to travel - our wandering liveshaving come together for a number of months in a frozen land. We also head to warmer temperatures,trees and plants, rain, night and the starry sky... dogs and kids, flowers andan unfrozen oceans and lakes. One,including those sitting near me, might ask, why leave these middle latitudes ofwarmth and wonderful living things…

So I say, the Antarctic (and Iassume Arctic as well) is a fantastic place. The mountains, the frozen sea, the Minke and Orca whalesthat have been abundant in the turning basin of the fuel and cargo ships, thepleasure of being in a place that humans aren’t really mean to be, the strangefeeling of seeing the sun rotate around the sky in an almost perfect circle atthe South Pole, to stand in one exact spot on the Earth where all directionslead north…to stand on the rim of the southern most active volcano in the worldand look down into it’s molten lava lake 1000 feet below…and to look upon thecontinent and see it almost exactly as did Shackleton, Scott, and Amundsen 100years before.

And then there is there is thecommunity and the stations. Howfun to have set up a pickle ball league in Antarctica, to have some of the mostfun indoor soccer I’ve ever played, to share American Sign Language through aweekly class. How amazing to have been one of two renewable energystewards of the such amazing places. Such stunning helicopter flights to such places that make me think I’mon the planet Mars! In many waysI’ve felt like I’ve been on another planet, gone for more than just a trip tothe moon, but a trip to a planet. Things are different at home. The season has changed, my brother now has a child, lives have changedand grown in my absence – and as I change each time I am here having learned,having been challenged, and having shared the wonder of wind and solar energythat’s all around us. There weremany times this season that I was up on a tower or landing the final wires intoa solar panel, in a cold wind or bright sunshine, on the flank of a beautifulvolcano or near the bottom of a stunning valley lake that I shook my head andlaughed out loud, thinking, I can’t believe I am getting paid for this!

Word seemed to spread quicklythrough conversations with friends and my Facebook post that I was working onand had finished and submitted my application to NASA in hopes of becoming anastronaut. I think some of myfriends think I’ve already been selected despite my telling them of the slimlikelihood of me beating out the other qualified applicants. But it is wonderful to have suchsupport on the ice as I do at home. Thank you to all that root for me!

And now I wonder how similar ordifferent I would feel after six months on the space station…it is interestingto contemplate. Instead of 4months of daylight there would be only 45 minutes between the sunrise andsunset. Crazy to think about. Whether coming home from ice or fromorbit I look forward to the first inrush into my nostrils of air filled withthe smell of living plants and to the sound of birds in the air and the trees,and to the feel of grass beneath my feet, to the sound of the wind through atrees leaves, and to the feeling of the ocean all around me.

I now set off to the North Islandof New Zealand for a few weeks of surfing. I was unable to rent the station wagon I wanted but for $2more per day they have a 8-person “people mover” van for me. It might just be perfect. Party wagon! … for me and mysurfboard, to whom I’ll probably do a lot of talking to. I very much look forward to being inthe water and to having the sun on more of my body than my nose and cheeks aswell as the thin line above my glacier glasses and below my hat.

I sit now in my seat, stillmostly overcast skies below having traveled 500 miles in the time it’s taken meto write this. The ECW clothinghas been taken off and I sit in my Sunday or after work clothes of my sailor jeans, a state radio t-shirt,and the green hoody that I’ve been wearing since high school (I’m sure many ofyou can picture it exactly) with a shaved face and head…wondering if maybe I’llsurf a little better if I have the look of surfer Kelly Slater.

An hour and a half untill NewZealand; the clouds have opened up to reveal the desert ocean below. New chapters to begin, new adventuresto have. Life is good.

My favorite passage that I readthis season, from Shackleton’s Forgotten Men by Lennard Bickel: (The scene takes place about 10 miles from where Ispent the last not-so-harrowing six months.)

“…Joyce went to the high window,stood on a box, peered through the glass, and suddenly yelled, ‘Ship ho!’ The hut broke into pandemonium. Men were laughing, shouting, shakinghands, and then came the headlong rush to collect the few possessions eachwould carry away from those two harrowing years in the Antarctic.”

I feel like I can picture itexactly and take great joy in imagining the excited pandemonium.

And some of my favorites from the season:

A Week on Mt. Erebus!

2012-01-22T01:51:00.000-05:00

What a week! Up to Mt. Erebus for 7 days to put up a number of small wind turbines or "wind birds" as we tend to call them, and to build a small solar system to power a few instruments during the harsh winter. Mt. Erebus is the southern most active volcano in the world and we were flown up last Tuesday to almost 12,000 feet.

We can see Erebus as soon as we are airborn, in itself always remarkable - being airborn, that is. And during the half hour flight over the long southwest peninsula of Ross Island and then up Erebus' flanks, the mountain looms larger and larger as we climb higher and higher, the pilot flying with a nasal canula giving him some extra oxygen (a very good thing).

Lower Erebus Hut sometime between 2-4am when the sun is behind the crater.

We landed and unloaded our 400 or so pounds of gear, crouched over it so it didn't blow away and the helo departed leaving Nick and I to ourselves many miles away from McMurdo and a few miles above it. We opened up the camp and that night drove snow mobiles down to Fang camp a few thousand feet below to sleep in more oxygen rich air, as they say: "Climb high, sleep low", or in our case, "Work high, sleep low." To get to the camp near Fang Ridge, one has to take the snow machine down Fang Gulley. Yes, that's right, "gully" - a notoriously steep and icy gully that has rolled more than one snow machine. Forgetting to put my machine into first gear and also volunteering for the extra challenge of dragging a loaded sled behind my machine (which makes it more prone to rolling if the sled starts to swing out past the machine) I raced down the gully, not really on purpose but necessarily going faster than my sled, sometimes nearly out of control, but of course still in control and thereby made it safely to camp with a little bit of nervous adrenaline.

The camp is set in a beautiful location. Four small Scott tents in the middle of the solid Fang Glacier. The pictures do it justice. One has to look carefully to see the tents.

Fang Camp, looking north.

Fang Camp, looking south.

The next day we were back up to the Lower Erebus Hut or LEH, where we were dropped off to begin our solar and wind work. First on the agenda was the two Cones wind birds. At the Cones sight were two rebuilt 30 foot towers that had come down during the previous winter. We hoped it mounting the two birds would take a day, but in fact it took 3 and a half. It seemed like I went up and down the towers a million times during those days. Raising the mounting poles, raising the birds, raising the blades, removing the unbalanced blades, installing the spares, dropping the whole blade assembly to try another one, then dropping that one because of an imbalance, and on and on...Like a space man on a space truss on the space station. I took my headphones up with me for the first time and had the wonderful experience of listening to many Pearl Jam albums high on a wind tower overlooking McMurdo Sound at around 12,000 feet in a slight breeze and sunshine. This would contrast the experience at Nausea Knob a few days later.

McMurdo is at the end of the peninsula that stretches from the lower left to the middle of the picture.

The Cones towers awaiting their birds.

On the way up!

Nausea Knob was really like being in space. We had a stiff wind the entire day and being away from the hut, there was no warm place in which to rest or take off the layers and layers of cold weather coverings, face mask, goggles, etc. Not a bit of skin uncovered, no place to rest from the wind, eating and drinking because I knew if I did not keep up the discipline, I would pay for it at the end of the day in the cold, high wind. Again, up and down the tower, all the while with toe warmers in my gloves. Endless little tasks to another tower fixed and all the parts and pieces ready for a complete install of the new wind bird. (The last one had been ripped off the pole in the winter.)

Finally the bird was up, spinning, all wires were landed and making power. By the end of the long day, I was thoroughly exhausted having felt like I was never going to make it back to the hut.

The rest of our time was spent getting the winter solar and battery bank set up for the winter. This was done during the last few days and nights. Since the sun is always up and since we had a specified pick up done, there was much work to be done and one could to the work at any time. This I quite enjoyed. I was able, within limits of having some carpenters at the hut, work when I wanted to. We didn't really have time off, but I could wake up a little later than usual, be exhausted by the time we would eat dinner at around 9 or 10 pm, but then get a second wind and work the last few nights until 2am. These last two nights the sun was out, the wind was calm and it was just wonderful to be outside. I love my work, and it was such a pleasure to be outside at such a fantastic place. I wanted a few more days to work my own schedule, to see where I would end up and how it would correlate with the 24 hour cycle and circle of the sun ahead. The sun went behind the crater rim from about 2am to 4am and this sort of became my night. When in the shadows, it was time to stop working.

A peaceful night with a steam vent in rising 15 feet above the snow surface.

The last night it was so beautiful and calm, I ended up sleeping outside. So excellent to be sleeping "under the stars" in Antarctica at near 12,000 feet on the side of an active volcano! So peaceful to look below and see the clouds above McMurdo Sound. The last few nights before bed, I would climb the LEH wind towers to get a look into the Sound below. So good it was to get away from town for a bit, to work hard in a wonderful place with wonderful people.

My bed for the night.

A wind bird and the circling moon. How beautiful!

We had one bit of down time and one night after dinner we motivated to go to the crater rim. It was a clear day and we had a fantastic time hiking around the rim and gazing far below (maybe a thousand feet or so) into the molten lava lake! (A molten lava lake in Antarctica!) The pictures will speak for themselves. Closer to space I was!

A molten lava lake far below. 60 meters across!

Time Zones at the Pole

2011-12-07T22:19:00.001-05:00

Wednesday 7 December 2011

Tourists! When we walked out to the visitor tent this morning, we were surprised to find 3 Toyota Hiluxes. Very cool trucks these things are. Not sure where they came from, but no doubt a long way! A DC-3 landed today with a bunch of tourists. We met a British woman who had been dropped off with her team 97 nautical miles away, where Shackleton turned around, deciding the pole was not worth the his and his companions lives. The woman and her team were skiing these last miles, but the woman had to be evacuated due to a frostbitten nose and altitude illness. She said her team was coming in a few days from now. I asked her when...and it went something like this:
Her: Thursday
Me: Oh, tomorrow!
Her: No...I think they'll be in on Thursday...
Me: ...Isn't today Wednesday? (My mind about to be blown as I realize what's happening)
Her: It's Tuesday.
Me: It's 11:30 am on Wednesday for us. What time is it for you?
Her: Tuesday evening between 6 and 7.
Me: That's crazy!!

She came through Punta Arenas, Chile and has not crossed the international date line, whereas, I am on New Zealand time and have crossed the international date line. Time zones converge at the south pole to an crossing point at the geographic south pole, where technically there is NO time zone. So here we were standing at the same place, at two different times of day, on two different days at the same time!

At the pole, one day lasts six months. Three months of morning as the sun spirals up, three months of afternoon where the sun spirals down, then six months of darkness. So technically, it's morning as the Solstice has not been reached, and therefore the sun has not reached its peak. So right now, we're about 14 days from the solstice, each day counts for 4 minutes, so that would be 54 minutes before noon. So we're at 11:06am south pole time. Tomorrow will be 11:10am. Boggles the mind!

We finished our work and I spent the evening playing chess and helping some friends make a zombie movie (they needed zombie extras) that will be shown at the South Pole and Mcmurdo international film festivals later this season (spoiler alert: science saves the day).

Return to the Pole!

2011-12-06T13:11:00.001-05:00

Monday 5 December 2011

Back to the pole! Captain Amundsen arrived a hundred years ago, and Captain Urmston returns! I love this place. What took Amundsen and Scott many weeks, today took me a handful of hours. It started with a two minute truck ride from our shop to the shuttles office. Then a ride in an hour ride in a huge wheeled Delta out to the Pegasus airfield, then a bit of waiting, then a van ride out to the LC-130 aircraft.

The three hour flight was fantastic, especially considering the historical route following Scott 100 years later. We cruised over the ice shelf at 22,000 feet and then an hour and a half into the flight, we entered the Trans-Antarctic mountain range. Naturally I asked if I could go up into the cockpit and subsequently had incredible views. I loved being in the cockpit, knowing what most of the instruments tell of, knowing from just the binding of the books on the shelves, that they are for in-flight celestial navigation, and knowing that they were getting paid, in part, to fly me to the South Pole so that I can set up a solar system for the people who will visit this fascinating place this summer.

From our viewing point in the air we could the Beardmore Glacier, which Scott had taken to the pole. So fascinating to think of Scott, and Shackleton as little figurines with their sledges far below, 100 years ago.

I could also look down upon the mountain tops and pick out peaks that I’d stood on, from my work last year as an antenna rigger. I’ve seen a lot of peaks from the air – they are really special when I can look at them and remember exactly what it felt like to stand on top of it way down there. I imagine it’s sort of like seeing Antarctica from space and knowing one has been there before. (Yes, I hope this one person is me someday.)

I’m sleeping in the new station this time around instead of being out in a Jamesway, as I was five years ago when I was here last. I feel important, but it’s really because we’re only staying for a few days. Nonetheless, it is fun to feel like a real station resident and our rooms feel like ship cabins, which of course I like.

Flying from sea level to 9,300 feet (with a pressure altitude of over 10,000 feet) in three hours is interesting…so far so good. I am drinking lots of water and taking it easy. The work begins tomorrow.

Around 250 people here currently. -32 degrees C, light winds, bright sunshine (the sun is 22 degrees above the horizon). The hour of the day is arbitrary because there is no point where the sun reaches its highest of the day. The sun slowly spirals up over the course of 3 months, reaches its peak around December 21^st (the summer solstice in this hemisphere) and then slowly spirals down over the next 3 months. The station runs on New Zealand time because it is the same time that its lifeline, McMurdo Station, runs on.

That’s all for now. Hoping for a good sleep tonight and good progress tomorrow!!

Tuesday 6 December 2011

Didn’t sleep too well last night, but kept pounding down the water and take it easy to try to rid myself of the altitude headache. By morning I discovered the sore throat that had plagued me for a number of days making it painful to swallow, had finally disappeared. Apparently all I needed to do to get better was return to the Pole! After breakfast and some more fluids the headache disappeared and I was ready to go.

The days task was sinking the pole five feet down into the snow for our solar array. Thankfully we had a small back hoe do the trick but it was a bear wrestling in the pipe into our platform at the bottom of the hole. It will be even more of a bear to get the thing out next month. Lots of digging and filling and chopping and stomping and plumbing as well as checking lots of other components of the system that will be fully installed by tomorrow.

The temps were -31°C or around -25°F but the wind was only about 2 knots so it was delightful to be working outside in under the entire southern hemisphere’s blue sky. (If only I could see the stars!) Nick was wearing just a tee-shirt at one point while I wore just a long sleeve over a short sleeve. Quite balmy indeed! Tomorrow, there shall be power!!

After work and dinner, I went for a ski “around the world.” Amundsen got here by ski, and so shall Urmston, the last few hundred feet or so. It is neat to have skied in all longitudes of the Earth, to stand where all directions are north. These things endlessly fascinate me. I have a little GPS and since the ice sheet that the station is on is slowly moving about 30 feet a year, I found the new position that is remarked every January 1^st of the new year. Very neat to look down at the GPS latitude and longitude readout and see South 90° 00.000’.

The station is very cool, I feel like I’m on a space station! Every time I go out through the doors out into the bright white, I feel like I’m going out into space for a space walk! Fascinating stuff. To get internet access we use 3 or 4 satellites at different times of the day. It’s slow but the fact that there is internet here is amazing. I sort of wish it was only ham radio, but so it goes.

Now to sleep to rest up for another day at the South Pole!

Turkey Trot 5K

2011-11-26T18:09:00.001-05:00

Got to have something to train for. First objective: Thanksgiving Turkey Trot. Warmed up on the treadmill listening to Rocky music. It's always a fun race, so much character in this little town! More snow than usual for this time of year so I wore yak tracks over my running shoes for extra traction.

The starting line, marked by the three turkeys was the shadow of a power line. The Chapel in the background.

Ob Hill in the background: The sight of the x-mas day race, Up Ob Hill.

My customary NOLS wind pants and 11 year old wind jacket.

The turkeys leading me flying in to the finish with me.

The Rocky warm up worked and I was the first to cross the finish line with a time of around 20:17. This had the extra bonus of being first in line for a free post-race massage! Overall, Thanksgiving was wonderful. A fun race, later a beautiful skate ski out to the ice runway and then some good food with lots of friends. We haven't had a C-17 flight in about a week, so there were less freshies than normal but it was still very good. And to have a second day off to look forward to was also wonderful. The evening activities included some live music as well as FREEZING MAN, McMurdo's redition of the Burning Man festival. Very interesting.

Happy Thanksgiving to you all!

Lake Fryxell!

2011-11-25T19:52:00.001-05:00

Back to Lake Fryxell to trouble shoot some autogenerator start issues and confirm the wind gen was working properly. All was well, climbed the tower to re-torque the blades and everything worked properly after the main cut-off switch was cycled. The trick of it all seems to be how everything interacts. Setting after setting concerning the inverter, charger, wind generator, solar panels, batteries. There must be more than 50 settings to check and they all have to be coordinated to work together. It was a beautiful day so I took my time up on the tower. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves - such a beautiful day there, and then a beautiful ride back to town near the open water and many icebergs!

Mt. Erebus!

2011-11-25T18:33:00.001-05:00

Up to Mt. Erebus last week to replace 12 batteries that did not survive the wintertime. They were left connected to power some science experiments at 12,000 feet but something went amis. (Strange, unexpected things happen in the wintertime...). So from sea level to 12,000 feet we go in about half an hour. It is an amazing helicopter ride with Mt. Erebus looming larger and larger through the front windows.

It is typically cold and windy up there so we had tried for many days to get up there. The first day was out due to weather. The second day we went to the helo pad and then were put on a two hour delay. Then it was too "warm" at the camp on the third day so the density altitude for the helo to land safely, so I was bumped to save some weight. The helo was going to come back for me but Nick, my partner in crime who went up, discovered that all batteries had not survived the winter, so I went back to the shop to grab and test and package 12 new batteries. On the fourth day, I think it was, I made it up.

The camp is awesome. Stunning views and cold and high. Solar panels, two of my favorite types of "wind birds" the Air X type we had on the top of Crazy Horse's mizzen mast!

The camp solar/wind system was put in many years ago and now resembles some sort of rats nest that we are trying to improve. There is only so much that can be done though in the 4-6 hours that they'll let us work up here before altitude sickness starts to threaten. But the views are fabulous looking over McMurdo Sound and out into the Ross Sea. It is especially exciting to be climbing the towers to check out one wind bird in a cold wind at 12,000 feet. Feels kind of extreme, like a spacewalk. (Naturally I love it.) Maybe someday I'll be able to do that sort of things 200 miles up!

Lots to do...

Once our work was done, it was time to do a little exploring of the surrounding area. Beautiful formations called fumerols, where warm vents from the inside of the mountain reach the surface and condense and create amazing structures with the snow. There is also a helicopter crash site from some time in the 50's or 60's that is still there. Amazing history of this place.

Where's my Ton Ton.

On the way home we could see the end of the beautiful peninsula where McMurdo Station sits. I had the helo-tech take a picture for me as we meandered back down to sea level and oxygen rich air.

The peninsula.

A little closer to town.

Town, looking very industrial as it always does.

My shop desk in a state of disrepair.

Shackleton's Cape Royd

2011-11-19T15:20:00.001-05:00

Out to Cape Royds a week and a half ago. This is where Shackleton had his hut more than 100 years ago. Craziness! It was a beautiful day and as we flew over the peninsula, we could see Castle Rock in front of Mt. Erebus, both frequently mentioned in the writings of the explorers who were here around the turn of the last century.

Big Razorback Island. Another one mentioned in the old books.

The inverter and charger were set in a box for the winter outside. Snow finds a way through any hole and our box was no exception. We had to set the thing by the heater to melt out all the snow - making sure none to the electronics were going to short out when we turned everything on.

The inverter and charger and such are somewhere buried in this box. Snow always finds a way in...

The science hut (with panels on the left!)

Otherwise a routine day. Panels got mounted, batteries tested and connected to each other, inverter and charger checked and tested, and the system is ready for scientists! It is amazing to be where Shackleton and all his men had been. Such history!

Shackleton's hut!

Lake Fryxell and Lake Bonney

2011-10-29T19:41:00.000-04:00

Out to Lake Fryxell to continue work in the dry valley science camps.

Installing the 200W panels.

Just down from the tower.

The inverters, chargers and batteries.

Then off to Lake Bonney, one of my favorite places in the world. Five years ago I was here for two weeks with a microbiologist. Just the two of us were here and when she would do her science after we'd collected samples, I'd go exploring. Needless to say, it was great to be back and see all the wonderful sights.

Lake Bonney.

Beautiful lake ice.

The Hues Glacier.

Up above the camp are beautiful wind-sculpted rocks known as ventifacts. There are endless shapes to be seen. And over the years I've seen eagles, salmon, mosters and more. It feels very much like Mars.

The panels at Lake Bonney.

Sunset at Bonney.

All too soon it is time to head back down the valley with a quick stopover at F6.

And then back to McMurdo.

On the way back to McMurdo.

Crossing McMurdo Sound.

New Harbor and Lake Hoare

2011-10-29T18:55:00.000-04:00

The camp at New Harbor

The summer season has begun, and there is science to be had, samples to be taken, and thankfully for me, computers, cameras and ipods to be charged by sun and wind. Across McMurdo Sound and into the Dry Valleys we went a week ago to set up the renewable energy before the scientists get there. The camps have various combinations of wind and solar power and we went to the camps to check and hook up the batteries, reinstall the solar panels, check the chargers and inverters, attach the small wind turbine blades and then verify everything is working properly.

Where the scientists live, eat and sleep.


The generator shack next to the solar panels and "wind-bird."

After our few hour stay at New Harbor it was time to go to Lake Hoare, perhaps the largest of all the Dry Valley camps. One morning while I was reading a National Geographic, I had a sudden feeling that I was IN a National Geographic. It naturally made me smile as I have always loved those magazines that were stacked on our cellar stairs for so many years. Such treasures they are!

The camp at Lake Hoare.

A science Jamesway.


The camp at the lower right. Not a bad place to spend a summer.

The inverters and chargers.

Batteries for the camp.

And if we're lucky and things are working, there might be a little time to go for a hike!

Next to the Canada Glacier above Lake Hoare.

Lake Hoare is an amazing place. Nestled into the side of a mountain, a huge glacier 100 meters away, on a lake, with solar power, radio communication, even a phone that works off a radio. Sort of like a Mars research station. I loved it. Was only allotted one night so sadly we returned to McMurdo the following morning.

Cape Crozier

2011-10-15T17:15:00.002-04:00

Looking North out to the Ross Sea past the hut at Cape Crozier.

I went out to Cape Crozier, where there is a science hut for a few folks that spend the season studying the Adelie and Emperor penguin colonies that are out there. The trip out to Cape Crozier took about 45 minutes in a Bell 212 helicopter and on the way it was very interesting to imagine three of Scott's men making the treck in winter, 100 years ago over the course of a few weeks. It was fascinating to look down at the crevasses and ice features imagining I could see three small figures hauling sledges of equipment, almost losing their lives many times over all for the sake of scientific discovery via the goal of obtaining a few penguin embryos. Their story is told by one of the members, Apsley Cherry-Gerrard in his book, The Worst Journey in the World. (I am reading it now).

When we got to the cape, on the far eastern side of Ross Island, we had stunning views and could see open water below the huge ice cliffs farther to the north east. We checked the solar panels. Nine of the ten seemed to survive the harsh winter unscathed, but one's outer glass had shattered. Hopefully we'll go out again to replace this panel. We checked the batteries, found that they were still fully charged, as frozen batteries hold their charge very well if they are fully charged. And then I climbed the short tower nearby that had a little wind generator on it. This one was very similar to the one that we had on our boat Crazy Horse so it was quite fun to get my hands on another. Fortunately or unfortunately there was no wind which made for very pleasant outside work conditions, but I was unable to hear one of my favorite sounds - the spinning up of the generator. I think I would have laughed out loud if I had heard that noise with so many fond and excited memories of getting power from the wind.

The shattered solar panel.

Happy to still be able to do some tower climbing!

The wind bird, as we call them.

It was very cool to be out at the hut. Power from solar panels and a wind generator, communications through various VHF repeaters, and a stunning view must make for a very interesting summer for a few scientists.

The Cape Crozier science hut.

Like astronauts on the moon.

...or Mars.

Where the frozen ice shelf meets the frozen sea.

The frozen southern ocean...calling out to me.

More familiar faces keep pouring into the station. During September there were about 500 people here. We're now up to around 800 and in Dec. we're scheduled to hit around 1100. The galley is very busy now and can be quite loud. I miss the friendly atmosphere of September when there were fewer people around, but I'm certainly glad it is a little warmer, that I don't have to check out a radio or find a partner if I want to run outside, and that the helicopters are now flying again.

This upcoming week, I'll head into the Dry Valleys (one of my favorite places in the world) to open up these science camps... That's the news from down south! Thanks for reading!

Summertime!

2011-10-08T19:38:00.001-04:00

Summer time has arrived as have hundreds of summer workers for the summer season of mid October to mid February. The galley is now quite crowded and the granola, grape-nuts and yogurt go faster, but it also means more friendly faces are back in town, with still more to come in the next few weeks.

The sun has still been setting but it only has until the 16th or so and then it will be above the horizon continually until around February 20th. It makes the evening twilight that much more special. Twilight has always been my favorite time of the day, and when it lasts a long time yet won't last through the month, it is something to not take for granted. So the other night, just before bed, I went over to the solar shop to switch out some batteries that were charging, I decided to hike up Observation Hill. It was windy and past my bedtime, but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to get up there to see the twilight and look over the ice, the Royal Society Mountains, McMurdo and New Zealand's Scott Base. So up I went.

Twilight, almost like seeing it from space.

The side of Ob Hill, the Sea Ice Runway in the background.

The cross was erected 100 years ago in memory of Scott's party that perished on the return from the South Pole.

The glorious moon high above Mac Town.

I paid the price and was exhausted the rest of the week, but it is now Sunday afternoon - trying to do a quick recovery on my one day off a week. I spent the week preparing MFPS units. (Mobile Field Power Stations). Each yellow box has two 30 Ah, 12 Volt batteries, a battery charger and an inverter for AC power.

Getting ready for the influx of scientists!

Then I worked on Fish Hut #5 getting it ready for another group. This module will be dragged out to their spot on the sea ice, if the sea ice is cooperating. It is unusually thin now and cracks have threatened scientists usual research locations. We will see.

Fish Hut #5 now electrically ready for the Weddell Seal scientists.

We also got the South Pole Visitor Center solar array out and tested. Now it is hanging out soaking in the sun and hopefully people are noticing it and wondering why we don't have solar arrays everywhere on the station!

The South Pole Visitor Center array, batts, inverter and charger.

And I played what may have been the first Antarctic game of Pickle Ball! For those who do not know, Pickle Ball was one of my favorite gym games...after floor hockey, of course. Floor hockey not being allowed, one has to do what one can. So I got permission, painted lines on the floor (green, of course) after work and had the carpenters make some posts, and finally got out my net, paddles and plastic balls. It was wonderful to play after close to 15 years without a game. It is perfect for McMurdo and hopefully I'll get a good group of racquet sport enthusiasts to join in with me.

My sign language class is going very well. It is great to be signing each week and generating some excited new signers! Soon it will be ASL class on Tuesday nights, Pickle Ball on Wednesdays and I'm starting an indoor soccer group on Thursdays! The summer will be busy, but hopefully lots of fun.

It is wonderful to have regular flights to the station because it means we get fresh fruit again. How wonderful to have a banana, an apple or an orange! I also found out the snow mobile mechanic that that works in the same shop has been a space shuttle technician for 11 years! Well, that's the week behind! The week ahead has more prep and maybe a trip out to a science camp!

Some interesting links:
The Antarctic newspaper:http://antarcticsun.usap.gov/
The McMurdo webcam: http://www.usap.gov/videoclipsandmaps/mcmwebcam.cfm

The Equinox

2011-09-21T07:04:00.001-04:00

Today is the equinox, autumnal or vernal, depending on whichhemisphere you have found yourself in. Equinox meaning equal time where the sun is above and below the horizon. The sun makes the crossing from the Northern Hemisphere to the Southern Hemisphere and thereby denotes a new season for both. One of my favorite days of the year,ever since learning the wonders of celestial geometry during my semester withSea Education Association more than ten years ago.

My equinox was spent working on our solar projects – oneproject of the scientists, one for the South Pole. (The sun rises at the pole today, having set six months ago. It must be a happy day for thePolies!) After work, a run on thetreadmill, a dinner with friends and then some work on the ol’ computer.

On my way back to my dorm (building #201), from building155, I saw the equinox sky, a glow behind the Royal Society Mountains from thesun who is taking it’s last few rounds behind the mountains. By mid October it will be circlingabove the horizon for four months. I decided to walk down to the Chapel to get a better look at thetwilight over the mountains and McMurdo Sound and ended up going inside theChapel as today had been -40 degrees with a -73 degree wind-chill.

The Chapel was dark and quiet, so I went in and walked up onthe raised part to look out the window. It was beautiful. Twilightcoming through the stained glass of the Chapel’s main window overlooking thesound. I stood there for a while,alone in the dark, looking out over the silhouette of the mountains.

Deciding it was time to leave I couldn’t help but sit downat the old piano, not quite in tune, but a million times better than the plugin keyboard and played through Moonlight Sonata, which I can finally play bymemory. So wonderful to have apiano here. With my back to thetwilight and stain glass but facing the twilight lit wooden panels above thepiano, I played my favorite song, the one that always reminds me of lying underour piano at home, while Dad plays it just before bedtime.

The light was too beautiful to leave so I went back to thewindow, but seeing the industrial buildings that took away from the mountainsand light, I grabbed a stacked chair and sat it down in the middle of the smallroom…one chair, one person, a dark chapel, and the beauty of an equinoxtwilight in Antarctica. I had myheadphones on and was listening to a Pearl Jam mix and I started to sing softlywith the music. It was good tosing, in a world where there is not much personal time or space, how wonderfulto have a chapel to oneself, to sing and sing. It didn’t take too long before I was singing as one singswhen one hasn’t in a month. It wasnice. I often forget how much Ineed to do that. It was then ontosome new Chadwick Stokes songs before it was time to leave. Singing the harmonies and then alongwith Chad, hearing the voice closest to mine in my ears. It was nice. Almost felt like I could touch those I love who are not herewith me. If I could not touch them,they have touched me.

Got to go to sleep now. It’s past my bedtime. Just wanted to share a bit of my day.

McMurdo Webcam: http://www.usap.gov/videoclipsandmaps/mcmwebcam.cfm

Week one.

2011-09-04T01:42:00.001-04:00

The Sun almost visible above McMurdo's horizon.

The sun is above the horizon now for almost 8 hours now, (growing by about 15 minutes a day) yet I have yet to see it as there are mountains to the north. Any day now, the sun should hit the station at around noon, through a saddle on the flanks of Mt. Erebus. The dusk and dawn light is wonderful. That has long been my favorite part of the day and it is wonderful to have it last so long. At night the stars are wonderful and I eagerly await the auroras, ever hopeful there will be clear weather if they come.

I'm enjoying my Sunday, my one day off, which included a treadmill run (too windy outside), Sunday Brunch, some time at the ham radio shack, some emails and such. Very nice to wake up this morning to the slowly growing light instead of the blinding light of the summer.

The HAM radio shack.

Looking out over town on the way back from the shack. The big blue building is where the galley is.

It got a bit colder today. Down to -20C (-4F) with windchills of -33C (-27F), so I've got my goggles as I walk around town. I almost shaved my face after the relatively warm temps -10C or so of the last week, but after today, I think I'll keep the beard coming. I was issued a carheart jacket with a snap on hood. When I put up the hood, and the googles, I have the strange sensation that, in fact, I am Han Solo on the planet Hoth. If only I had a Ton Ton to ride...

The HAM radio antenna.

We've been working hard on our South Pole power station and now we are also getting some small power stations for small science groups together. The first few days here were stormy. When it cleared up, I could feel my mood improve. I realized how I look fowrad to seeing the sun after not actually seeing it for a week, and then I think of the winter-over folks who have not seen it in many, many months! The sun brings health and energy to us humans, especially when we are alternative energy specialists! We cannot test our panels until we have sunlight. So I feel very connected to the sun these days. And throughout the day, I watch the moon do a circle above us, neither rising or setting, just circling us like the sun will do by mid october. My best to all of you!

Making the roads out the Sea Ice runway.

To the Dark Ice

2011-09-01T20:16:00.002-04:00

When the time came to leave Christchurch for the Ice, I wasready. We had been scheduled to bethere for two nights, but had been there for four as weather at McMurdoprevented us from departing. Sothis past Monday, it went like this.

0237 We get a call in my hotel room that the check-in timehas been delayed for 4 hours. Thisis very good news as it means I don’t have to awake at 0300 for a 0400 check intime. (My roommate was a 65 yearold diesel generator mechanic named Barry, most people call him Bear, fromTexas…awaiting his first trip to the Ice, though he’d down contract work inIraq with mortars raining into his compound! Holy smokes.)

0600 Wake up for a treadmill run to make the legs less anstyon the flight down, followed by hotel continental breakfast.

0730 Board the shuttle bus with all my bags.

0800 Change into my issued ECW (Extreme Cold Weather) gearand check in my bags.

0920 Briefing for working in Antarctica.

1000 Go through security, then back into the briefing roomfor an hour as there was an issue with the hydrolics in the plane’s tail.

1120 Start boarding the plane

~1200 Take off for the Ice

~1700 Arrive on the Ice! (I asked to go into the cockpit was too late – I had beentoo busy standing in the back looking out the small window of the C-17 so Imissed the cockpit runs.)

~1830 Arrive to McMurdo after a 13 mile ride in one of theDeltas. Not the fastest or mostcomfortable ride into town. Thisis followed by dinner and our arrival briefing by the station manager, therecreation officer, the environmental folks, and on and on. Only afterwards to we get our sheets,our room key and internet account info and then to our rooms to unpack!

It was a tiring day with a lot of briefings, sitting andtravel!

I have now done three days of work (and of course, some moretrainings, including how to drive a truck down here). Me and Erin, one of the guys I was a rigger with last year,have been working on a solar installation for the South Pole’s visitor centertent which will be up this year as it’s the 100 year anniversary of Scott andAmundsen (my hero) getting to the pole. (They expect hundreds of visitors!) To the pole I’ll get to go in October to set itup!

Otherwise, I’ve been settling in. Running on the treadmill as it’s dark before and after work,went to a yoga class last night, and working on getting organized. It’s been cloudy most of the time, withblowing snow almost all the time, but the temperatures have been relativelymild for this time of year. 7degrees F or so. Downrightbalmy...when the wind is not blowing, which isn't too often!

Tonight I walked down to Robert Scott’s hut of more than ahundred years ago to look at the evening sky and look back at the station indark mode. It is wonderful to seethe stars from Antarctica and I hope to see the auroras soon!

Today we had refresher training on what to do if caught in astorm without a vehicle, which includes how to set up a tent and how to operatea stove…I think I got those now!

Okay, that’s all for now. Thanks, as always, for reading and for beinginterested. It makes it easier tobe so far away when I know people enjoy reading. Don’t forget to share your stories with me too! My best to all of you!

My address for anyone inclined:

Ben Urmston, RPSC

McMurdo Station

PSC 469 Box 700

APO AP 96599-1035

Sailing in the Bahamas

2011-08-16T23:56:00.003-04:00

Pirated from Rob's Lloyd's blog:

http://fishershornpipesail.blogspot.com/

When you smile with a snorkel mask on your face water trickles in through the wrinkles next to your nose and slowly fills up the mask with water. If you are SCUBA diving this means you have to look up towards the surface and breathe out through your nose to clear the mask of water. The more you smile or laugh the more you clear your mask until, if you are playing underwater backgammon against your friend Benny Urmston, you are stuck in a downwards spiral of dice rolling, hand signals (not always polite), laughing, and mask clearing.

Overall our summer trip was fun and relaxing. We finally got chance to experiment with different sail combinations and pints of sail and found the FHP to a pleasure to sail in relatively light conditions. The weather was HOT and depending on the bugs some of the crew found it nicer to sleep on deck in the breeze.

Nadine On Deck, FHP

The crew was Ashley, our winter trip sailor/blogger extraordinaire, Benny, from The Hass expedition, Nadine, and I. Ashley, as usual, was completely impervious to seasickness and made some delicious curry for dinner. Benny spent as much time in and under the water as possible as he is about to spend the next six months in Antarctica.

Small Key Near Norman's Key

Nadine and Ash in a Sea Cave, Exumas Land and Sea Park

Waddington, B.C. Mountaineering

2011-08-16T21:57:00.005-04:00

A fun month leading a 14 person mountaineering expedition. Amazing country up in the range. Vans, sea planes, helicopters, crevasses, peaks, glaciers and excellent people. Didn't see anyone but our re-ration helicopter pilot for the whole month! Here are some pics:

EARTHQUAKE

2011-02-22T14:35:00.003-05:00

It isn’t every day you are thankful for forgetting something, or sleeping until exactly the moment you decided to wake up, or for having exactly the thing you did for breakfast, which took an exact amount of time to eat. But today I was thankful for every little decision I made, normally good or bad, because here I am, alive and well, having survived the 6.3 magnitude Christchurch earthquake that has claimed the lives of many. (The news now says dozens, the official count was in the 70s and maybe more than a hundred are missing from two buildings…the statistics are bound to rise for the worse.)

I was on the public library’s second floor using the free wireless internet when the ground started to shake. “What the hell is happening,” I thought, and then my mind said, “Christchurch…history of recent earthquakes…this is an earthquake…what to you do in an earthquake…dive under your elementary school desk of course…” So that’s what I did and went under the table on my hands and knees and wondered about my future as the ground moved back and forth, like I was on a blue gym mat that people on either side were playing a tug of war. The earth felt like it moved more than a meter in each direction during the big moves.

While the Earth was moving back and fourth, I wondered what was to become of the afternoon. Is my destiny to join the historical masses that have been trapped inside a building after a natural or unnatural disaster? Am I to be crushed inside this building? Am I to be injured by flying debris? Not much time to ponder…Time to get out of the library. “I’ll go down this isle, no, I can’t do that one…or that one…or that one…” as the floor between the isles was a mound of books. No books were left on the shelves. All were strewn about the floor after having taken flight during the shaking. I am happy I was not in a knife shop.

Outside I went to join the hordes of folks wondering what to do where to go. No one around me seemed hurt and wanting to make contact with my family, who I knew was soon to hear about this on the news, I checked to see if the library wireless was still active. It was and I made a gmail phone call to my girlfriend, Glynny, who is to join me here in a few days, and to my parents. The voice was breaking up, but I was able to tell Mom to go to facebook chat. Thank you facebook (small aftershock just now – seems like we’ve had a hundred today)…though it is not easy to convey the emotion of being in a large earthquake over facebook chat to those who haven’t just been though what I had. Was I scared? Well, I thought there was a chance I was going to die, so yeah, I was scared.

There were folks everywhere like me not knowing where to go or what to do except move away from buildings. The chaos was in part fascinating. Which direction is safe, will another quake happen, are buildings about to fall, are my friends okay? How can I help, who do I talk to, where am I supposed to go? From the internet, I was able to learn that it was a 6.2 or maybe 6.3 (can’t remember) and that it’s center was 10 miles SE of the city and at a depth of 5km. Though the quake that hit Christchurch in Sept. as 7.2 or so, it was 20 miles away and at a depth of 10km. (There’s another aftershock…a little rumble and a little rattling…) Because of the relative shallowness and proximity to the city center of the quakes epicenter, there was substantially more damage than what occurred in Sept. The Sept. quake also occurred during the night, so very few people were out and about, contrary to today’s quake at 12:51 pm. Eventually, after numerous littler aftershocks, I started to make my way back to the YMCA. On the way there was much destruction. Scaffolding in a crumpled pile, buildings that had avalanched onto the street, asphalt that had buckled like the ice pressure ridges of the Antarctic, and water in the streets from burst water pipes.

The YMCA looked like it had survived unscathed but I was told by a representative that no one would be allowed to go inside until the building inspector had declared it safe to do so. Knowing there were likely more aftershocks to occur and that the demand for building inspectors must far outweigh the supply, I headed to the botanical gardens for its open spaces and for lack of somewhere better to go. The city center was being evacuated and I joined the flow to the west where I eventually met up with some Ice friends. It was very nice to see familiar faces, to know that friends were still alive, and it was good to share stories. Some had been in the gardens all along, but some had seen people crushed right in front of them, others saw moving cars crushed with falling debris. All of us were a bit shaken up.

After a bit we walked to a clearer part of the park to escape the potential hazard of large trees. Those trees are strong! They are not going to fall….wrong. The trees, yes, are strong, they did not break, but the connection between the roots and the soil around…not as strong. We later saw whole trees uprooted.

After borrowing some phones we finally made contact with the CDC (Clothing Distribution Center) of the US Antarctic program and they escaped damage and were sending shuttles to pick us up. We eventually arrived, still not knowing what to do except line up to use the internet to let friends and family know we were okay. Immediately there was a facebook group organized to find Ice folks who might be affected by the quake. A supposed 500 Ice folks are in the country, and there were over a hundred that landed last night with me, so most of them are likely to still be in Christchurch. On request for Erin Heard, a fellow rigger, looking to help spread the word of safe folks, I posted all the names of people at the CDC along with those that had checked in safely onto the facebook page. Facebook is an amazing thing at times like these. It became a way to instantly spread information to masses and served as a gathering point in trying to locate friends and family.

Hours were spent compiling the names, making sure they got entered properly, and adding more check marks by people who had turned up safe and sound. Many are safe and there must be close to a hundred people now at the CDC. I was very happy to have that job of sharing information. It gave many people much relief, but there are still many who have not checked in. There are lots of Ice folks here, and there was a lot of damage. I don’t like the odds and worry about the coming days. Lives have been lost or forever changed.

The New Zealand response was swift. Within minutes there were folks everywhere with hard hats and orange safety vests, starting to organize and direct things. Clearly they had learned from the recent earthquake history of the city and they seemed ready. There was hope of power being restored by this evening, but we shall see tomorrow.

The hundred of us are a mixed lot. Some have nothing with them, some just a passport. Some a backpack with all their camping gear. Some will get their bags back, some are most likely never going to see their stuff again. My things are in the YMCA, which, as luck would have it, is an emergency structure and shelter built to withstand a quake with a magnitude in the 8’s. Some folks are supposed to fly out tomorrow, but have no bags, no passport and no chance of seeing either again. Supposedly the US consulate is going to give some emergency paperwork and ease the burdens of transport.

It is now past midnight, and my eyes are finally tired. I tried to go to sleep earlier, but the body would not allow it. A bit of adrenaline still going through the system. It is not often I chose the spot where I lie down depending on what can go flying or fall down upon me. It is raining out, and I feel very lucky to be in a place with friends and phones, computers and internet, electricity and toilets, drinkable water and sleeping bags, food. Earlier this afternoon, I reflected on the fact that I had no idea if I was going to be able to eat anything tonight. It is an interesting thing to think, “I have no idea where to find food.” Yet, sadly, to much of the world it is an all too frequent occurrence. Many others of the city are now in public parks under tents. It is not a pleasant night to be outside and I pray for the residents of Christchurch and the people who have been affected by this. I am happy to be safe and sound. I got lucky. I had walked in places where had the quake happened a little earlier or later, I could have been injured or maybe killed. It’s all just a random chain of events that led me to be where I was and I am mighty thankful things went the way they did. Now I wait to confirm this for the others who have not been heard from.

And now I’ll try to sleep, though it’s hard to escape the feeling that the ground is ever so slightly still moving back and fourth. I’ll try now to get some sleep for who knows what tomorrow will bring.

Off The Ice

2011-02-22T14:30:00.001-05:00

I am now thousands of feet above the southern ocean packed in a sea of seats and red jackets. There is an excitement in the air which relates very much to the excitement that exists as the C-17 flies southward in the beginning of the season. People around me are very excited about different food options, the smells of the living world, and the freedom to do what they choose.

I am lucky in that I do not feel burnt out, my job, for the most part is not mundane. I still marvel at getting paid to fly in helicopters to remote locations with one or two other folks to do our work, which often involves climbing and assembling towers and then dealing with tools and hardware sometimes at heights of one hundred feet off the ground. I am one of the lucky ones and do not take it for granted.

So now we fly north leaving behind the schedules and routines of the last three, four, or for some, six months. No more free room each night. No more free food. No more free gas. At the same time, no more scheduled meals, no more alarm clocks, no more 6 day work weeks. At least for a time. Many folks do this year after year, and so their off-ice time becomes just that – their off-ice time.

Yesterday, I went for a wonderful run around Observation Hill. It is a three mile loop that gets one a feeling of being far from the station. It was a favorite of mine this last week as the sea ice was disintegrating more and more with each passing day. How wonderful it is to see the open water in front of the station. It has not opened this much in some ten years! It is amazing what a difference it makes in the feel and energy of a place. The cold frozen continent suddenly becomes a living place. Whose waters connect it to rest of the world. I think, I theoretically, could get in a boat leave the shores of McMurdo and some time later (after lots of adventures) arrive back in Massachusetts! What a splendid idea! The smell of the ocean alone is enough to stop and marvel at the sea. A small whiff sets some neurons or something in my brain firing. McMurdo now included in my memories and experience of being on the sea. What I wouldn’t have done to have a little sailboat to do some exploring and see things from the perspective of the sea. Someday…someday…

During my the run, the wind was so light, I stopped to sit down and look upon the sea. It was warm enough sitting on the volcanic rock of Ob Hill, even in shorts, one long sleeve shirt and a vest, to sit for nearly 20 minutes and enjoy Antarctica around me. The water was making noises like whales as the waves found channels and other features in the ice. Then there were the penguins making noises just as we’ve all become familiar with from watching March of the Penguins. And then of course, the water breaking up the sea, taking one jig saw ice piece after another and quietly pulling it north so new pieces could be pulled. Had I left just a week or so ago, I would have missed the most beautiful part of the season.

The sun finally did set my last two nights. Not until almost 2am, but the darkness at those times (yes, I did wake up to see the light of the sunset) was refreshing. A change of light does wonders for the spirit.

And now a little interruption to look out the window near the rear of the plane. I don’t want to miss the Southern Ocean if the clouds have cleared! … Nothing but clouds below. Someday I shall be there making this off-ice transit on a ship. Someday hopefully, on my own ship!

People around me partake in various activities. Many read, some play with their computers, many sleep and some just stare blankly in front of them at nothing in particular. I’ll later write in my journal, continue monitoring the window at the back, look at other people and wonder about their lives, but mostly look around at the exposed wires and ducts and systems on the inside of the C-17 and then dream from there. So much to learn.

Nighttime, for the last 3 months, has been out of reach. Even though the sun set the last few days, it was for a very short time and it never went very far below the horizon – perhaps not even the 6 degrees necessary to qualify for civil twilight. Darkness lies to the north. And with darkness comes the magic of being able to see past our atmosphere, into the heavens beyond. Trapped have I been these last months. One of the pleasures of climbing mountains or flying in planes or helicopters is being able to see long distances. One of the pleasures of living on Earth is being able to see far beyond it.

North to the night, to the living, to the color green! Thanks for following along!

Back To Byrd Camp

2011-01-31T20:48:00.006-05:00

Back to Byrd camp to take down the tower and antennas for the season which is all but complete. Many of the camp staff has left and all the buildings are being taken apart and stored on a winter burm, which is a raised section of snow to minimize the burying in the winter blowing snow. I spent three days there, we had splendid weather for the most part. -15 to -25 C which was cold, but I was still able so skate ski and run on the skiway.

The outhouses.

My tent.

My yellow spaceman adventurer friend.

And a video for the kids at The Learning Center for the Deaf and for Bruce B.!

Wind Generators and Rhomic Antenna Towers at Black Island

2011-01-31T19:30:00.002-05:00

A Black Island visit was next on the list to service wind generator towers, the big high frequency rhombic antenna towers and to check the outer covering of the dome that protects the big satellite dish inside.

We had to shut down the entire station's communication with the US. Woke up at 12:30 am, while most of the station was asleep, to repair a few rips in the super strong fabric that envelopes the dish. It is super strong but the wind tears over Black Island and this combined with little volcanic rocks can sometimes do some damage.

Cape Royds

2011-01-23T17:42:00.006-05:00

This past week, I was sent to Cape Royds to remove all the comms equipment off the tower there. Cape Royds is the home of hundreds of Adelie penguins and was also the home of one of Shackleton's expeditions. The hut that his crew built there in the early 1900s is still there. So I was excited to be out there - to see the little penguins, and to be in the presence of Shackleton. (Endurance was the book recommended by my sister, Farley, that first got me interested in Antarctica.)

We pulled the antennas off tower, dug out some cable from under the snow and ice and then had some time to explore. Shackleton's hut was very neat, though I was not able to go inside as entrance is strictly controlled by the international conservation agreements. It was very neat to see the hut though (with canvas on the outside as restoration is in progress.) We could see the doghouses, the toilet, the trash heap, which I really would have liked to go through... and the weather station. Now I need to go back to my books and read about the hut and life at the hut. It's sort of like being where the astronauts walked on the moon!

The little Adelie's did not disappoint either. They are very curious, but used to researches who spend a season at the cape. Endlessly entertaining they are. They make a lot of noise and go to and fro, walking and sliding on their bellies. I think it is the way they walk upright that makes them unique and enjoyable to watch. They're almost like funny little kids. I'll let them speak for themselves:

It was wonderful to see the water up close and to really be on the coastline of a non-frozen ocean. We took some time to hike along the water and enjoy the area, and the views. Most of the time I was dreaming of sailing down here from New Zealand. We even saw one rise of a Minke Whale!

That's all for now! Three of us are currently at Black Island which is the satellite receiving station for all of McMurdo. (McMurdo can't see the satellites because Mt. Erebus is in the way. Black Island, a 15 minute helicopter flight across McMurdo Sound, can.) Climbed a 90 footer a few times today to restring a big HF four tower antenna. Here for a few more days.

Thanks for reading, hope all is well wherever you are!

Mt. Erebus

2011-01-23T17:17:00.004-05:00

Last week, three riggers, including me, went to Mt. Erebus. Our job was to put up a 20 tower and then mount a 300 watt wind generator on top of the tower. We had tried to do this project a few weeks before but it was one cancellation after another. So from sea level up to 12,000 feet we went, in two separate helos. As soon as we arrived and started to organize our gear the clouds came in and we had doubts as to whether we were going to be able to leave that night. There was the Lower Erebus Hut not too far below us, but we weren't too keen on spending the night 12,000 feet higher than we had been that morning.

We had a little time to spare so I took a hike up to the crater rim. I could not see much, but I could see the steep drop that eventually would lead to a bubbling molten lava lake. It was neat to be on the rim of the most southern active volcano in the world and to be at the top of Ross Island! On the way up and down I passed many interesting frozen lava bombs that sometimes reminded me of ringwraiths from the lord of the rings.

We finished the job, had the generator working and everything packed up and ready to go. Though we could see downwards a few miles, we were in a cloud and the helos could not reach us. Eventually both helo pilots told at two separate times, told us to grab what we could and get to the helo as fast as possible. The helos can make their own cloud as they take off at that height and with a lot of moisture in the air, and we could hear the importance of hurrying in the pilot's voice. We had to leave a bunch of gear on the mountain but these were recovered a few days later. Next day...to Cape Royds!

Tall Towers

2011-01-17T13:53:00.006-05:00

Two weeks ago we went up to T-site (short for Transmission site) to fix the rhombic antennas. They are used for talking with New Zealand, though these days with satellite phones, the rhombic antennas are a back up communications system. Four 80-90 foot towers make up the antenna with three wires hanging one over the other between them making what we call a curtain. One of the curtain wires had broken so we needed to string a new one.

This is Observation Hill in the background. "Ob Hill" is mentioned in many early explorer books of 100 years ago and was the scene of the Up Ob Hill race of Christmas Day. My time: 7 minutes, 11 seconds (of suffering).

Our next mission was aptly named, "TALL TOWER." For a week we had been trying to fly out to a site about 100 miles to the south located on the Ross Ice Shelf. Unfortunately, the weather was cooperating and we had a lot of time on standby. With time running out, it was decided that we would traverse to the site to put up the 100 foot tower. The site is along the over-land route to the South Pole so there is a relatively groomed road out to the site.

We had three tractors with us and rode in the "kitchen module." This is much like being below decks on a ship, everything always moving, sometimes crashing around the mod, sometimes flying across the mod but thankfully nothing broken except a bottle of soap. It took a day and half to arrive at the site.

For the evening, I chose to sleep in a tent by myself rather than in the sleeping mod with other folks. I like sleeping in the cold air, and it gives me a quieter space to read and relax.

The following day, we arrived and after the tractors helped dig out our anchor spots, they helped us raise the first 40 feet.

Then the climbing began. Section by 10 foot section. 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100. We use a gin pole to extend above the highest section we're working on, then haul up the next section from a pully on top of the gin pole, while the tractor pulls the opposite end, very slowly. Slowly it went up and thankfully nothing was dropped from such heights!

Once everything was all up we had to put the horizontal science and weather monitoring mounts at heights of 12, 25, 50 and 100 feet. (The equipment will be put on later this season or maybe next year).

When all was done, we took pictures and headed home!

CTAM: Central Trans-Antarctic Mountains

2010-12-23T14:16:00.007-05:00

CTAM:

CTAM Camp from above!

I spent last week at the CTAM camp. CTAM stands for Central Trans-Antarctic Mountains. It is a beautiful location with mountains all around, about an hour and half away from McMurdo on an LC-130. It is basically one of the most beautiful airports in the world, with two Bell 212 Helicopters, and a Twin Otter airplane all stationed there. During the day, it is a constant influx and outflux of aircraft and between the three aircraft, LC-130 flights in and out during the week, McMurdo communications and field party groups originating from CTAM, there is lots of traffic on the VHF radios, the HF radios and the sat phones.

The two Bell 212 helicopters. I love helicopters!

We had beautiful weather the entire week and I skied almost every day on the aircraft ski-way. I would put on my skate skiing boots in the morning and ski around camp from tent to tent as a faster way to get around, all thanks to my friend Jay's excellent grooming.

Tent City. Because the sun never sets, tents become greenhouses often 65 degrees F!

My first duty was to take the HF tower down and reconfigure the antenna to reduce the noise that was coming from generator. We ended up moving it farther away from camp and changing the antenna type, which seemed to do the trick.

My shadow form up on the tower.

Flying!

Once the tower was done and the HF (High Frequency - long range) antennas was figured out, it was time to go flying! We had two repeaters to put up (one to communicate with the aircraft and the other to communicate with field camps. So out to the mountains we went!

Mt. Falla, where we put up a relay to retransmit a signal to and from a repeater.

The relay and helo on the top of Mt. Falla. -25C above 11,000 feet!

The equipment had good enough lines of sight so that towers weren't necessary, just little tripods that could see into the valley. It was fun to be on a mountain top, in the cold and in the relatively thin air. To get to the far peak we needed the repeaters on (Mt. Kinsey), we had to fly over the Beardmore Glacier. This is the route Robert Scott took to get to the south pole only to arrive and find Amundsen's abandoned tent there. It was pretty neat to fly over and imagine sledges, dogs, ponies and men down below finding their route across the glacier 100 years ago.

The Beardmore Glacier, used by Scott to get to the Pole in 1912.

The mountains near camp.

Saturday night festivities: golf lessons...(and "Golf Team" photos.)

For our one day off, we got to explore, driving a few snow mobiles to the local hill, going for a hike with some geologists. We found petrified wood and traces of old forrests from long ago when Antarctica was not so far south. Pretty wild to see wood fibers in the rocks on this slope. Just as wonderful was the views. The Trans-Antarctic Mountains are endlessly stunning.

Looking for the best site to put the repeater...Mt. Kinsey.

To the Dry Valleys and Moore's Bay

2010-12-12T14:27:00.005-05:00

I made it back from Byrd after 8 cancelled flights arriving to town at 1:30 in the morning aboard the LC-130 aircraft. Needless to say, I was a bit tired. But always there was work to do. On Thursday I went to the Dry Valleys to do some work on a few repeaters on the ridge to the south of the valleys overlooking a few of the camps. It is a wonderful place and many memories came flooding back to me.

Looking back to McMurdo Sound. The water is out there!

The following day out to Moore's Bay, past Mount Discovery named for one of Captain Scott's ships about a 100 years ago. The Moore's Bay camp is looking for neutrinos. We spent a bit of time digging out some old antennas and dug out a bit of the tower that was installed a few weeks ago.

Tomorrow I'm scheduled to fly out the CTAM camp on the Beardmore Glacier to put up a few repeaters on the local mountain tops. I'm looking forward to returning to a field camp where life is a bit simpler. It's been above freezing in town for a few days!!

Still working to make contact with Dad on the HAM radio, but I did make contact with Hawaii and Georgia. Getting closer to Massachusetts! Hope all is well! And thanks for reading!

A Week at Byrd

2010-12-06T12:00:00.001-05:00

Day 6

Byrd Surface Camp:

What was to be a short two day stay has turned into 6 so far...Erin and I arrived on Wednesday expecting to finish work by Friday evening so we could fly out on the next available flight - Saturday. But our equipment and hardware did not show up on time and we have been left to scrounge around. We did well and we were able to borrow tower sections, uni-strut metal bars for antenna mounting, a wooden 4x4 to be used in place of a tower, extra cable and many other things. Improvising is regular at field camps in the Antarctic Program.

Camp is located on the plateau, there is nothing in sight but what has been brought to the camp. There is a line of shelters used for medical, materials, comms and other such important things. The most important and biggest of the structures is the galley. Past all the structures is Tent

City. A grid of approximately 40 tents that we all sleep in. Shelters, tents, lines of cargo on wooden pallets, outhouses and a bunch of vehicles. That's about it. And a continual wind West.

The temp hovers around -18C which is around 0F. It is quite comfortable with our ECW (Extreme Cold Weather) gear but when the wind is really blowing (like almost all the time) one needs to keep the skin covered except for short runs to the outhouse or pee flag.

We've now had 7 flights of the LC-130 canceled for various reasons. Mostly weather before the left "the deck" at McMurdo and two have been turned around - one for a cracked windshield and the other, today, came within 80 miles, circled for an hour, and then returned to McMurdo much to the disappointment of the nine folks that have been waiting to head back to McMurdo for what's getting close to a week.

The HF (high frequency) antenna is up as is the irridium satellite antennas which gives the camp a data connection - 1/1000th of the bandwidth of a normal household in the US - for the approximately 50 people who are here. No web surfing, just a simple email account.

To pass the time, something which comes relatively easy to me, I've mostly been learning morse code from my ipod. My dad and I both have our ham radio licenses and being that we're nearly 10,000 miles away voice contact may require more power than we have on each radio. But morse code can make the distance, amazingly enough. Last week, during a test, I could hear him sound out a few signals. So I've spent my nights listening to dits and dahs - and reporting on the sample contacts I've been listeing to, to my partner in crime, Erin...much to his enjoyment.

I like the field camp life. It is colder, harsher and the community tighter. No regular email, no regular phones, just VHF radios (which, naturally I love) throughout the camp. We entertain ourselves with Boggle and speed Scrabble. Lief is simple and I can't complain. But work is all but done here and I am looking forward to returning to "Mac Town" to continue learning the trade of a rigger, which I am quite enjoying. (Only one three hour flight away).

That's all for now. Hopefully two flight tomorrow! I hope all is well.

Byrd Surface Camp

2010-11-29T14:14:00.006-05:00

Hello!

The season continues to go well. I've been climbing and inspecting towers, putting up antennas, and flying in helicopters...and of course, asking the helicopter pilots LOTS of questions. I'm scheduled to fly to Byrd Surface Camp on Wednesday morning for a few days with another rigger to put up a tower with irridium sat. phone and data antennas, and ground to air antenna so the camp folks can talk with the pilots, a wireless cloud antenna and a local VHF antenna for regular voice communications. We'll be way out there, taking a LC-130 to fly out there into the interior of the continent.

Scott's hut in the foreground. McMurdo Station behind. Three wind turbines on the hill behind the station.

Otherwise this past week, I had a wonderful Thanksgiving meal, a real TWO DAY weekend, put up a dipole for the HAM radio club, checked out Robert Scott's hut from the early 1900s and climbed down into an Observation Tube below the sea ice.

Into the Observation Tube.

Under the sea ice!

Below is a link to an article written about Byrd camp and below this is the info I receive about life at Byrd this season for those who are interested.

http://antarcticsun.usap.gov/features/contenthandler.cfm?id=1792

Byrd Surface camp is at an elevation of 5,270 ft and is located at S 80.01 W 119.64. It is one of the oldest deep field establishments in the USAP program. Initially constructed as Byrd Station in 1957 and then reconstructed as New Byrd Station in 1960, it took the form of a relatively large network of arches lying approximately 20ft under the surface of the ice. Abandoned 10 years later, it has been followed by a number of different surface stations and camps, the last of which was decommissioned in the ’04-’05 field season. Last year, in November 2009 it was reincarnated as a 12 structure, 30-60 person research camp with the purposes of supporting a variety of geophysical research projects over the next five years.

In order to help you enjoy your stay here at Byrd, the camp staff have put together this document to outline the features of Byrd camp, its layout, amenities, operational areas and a few rules and policies that have been implemented to ensure your safety while here at camp.

Camp Layout and Facilities

Below you will find a map of the camp detailing the various buildings and Tent City. Following the map is a description of each of the buildings and how best to use them while here at Byrd.

Galley

The galley is open 24/7 for snacks and drinks.

Official meal times are:

Breakfast: 6:30am – 7:30 am Lunch: 12:00pm – 1:00pm Dinner: 6:00pm – 7:00pm Midrats: 12:00am – 1:00am (for night crew only)

Please let the Chef know if you have any allergies or food preferences.

House Mouse:

Everyone is asked to participate in House Mouse duties when staying at camp for longer than a period of 3 days. House Mouse duties include such tasks as washing dishes, filling the snow melter, refilling supplies and cleaning the Galley. Your name will automatically be added to the roster when you arrive. Please check the schedules in the Galley to determine the time of your house mouse shift. If you are unable to make the time assigned to you, please contact one of the chefs to arrange an alternate time.

Galley Info Board:

There is an information board in the Galley that contains a variety of information about camp, from official camp documents to daily weather forecasts and flight information to current recreational activities, etc. Please check it regularly for updates.

Medical

The Medical Tent will be staffed from 8:30am to 11:30 am Mon – Sat for drop-ins or appointments. The PA will be available throughout the remainder of the working day, as needed and is on call 24/7 for emergencies. The PA sleeps in the medical tent to respond to any medical emergencies that may arise during the night. Feel free to stop in; it is only asked that you knock to preserve the privacy of patients.

Wash module and Outhouses:

The Wash module contains a cubby for each member of camp to store their toiletry items for the duration of camp. In the wash module, you will find showers, washing machine and sinks. Instructions for the operation of each of these systems will be posted inside. Due to the limited amount of water available at Byrd Camp, a shower schedule may be needed and will be posted similar to the house mouse schedule. There are a set of outhouses located in line with the cargo berm, behind the galley. Additionally there is another outhouse in the center of Tent City. The camp at large is responsible for the cleanliness of our facilities, so please clean and resupply toilet paper or hand sanitizer as needed.

Comms

The Communications tent is generally where you’ll find the camp management staff, if they’re not out and about. If you need either the camp manager or supervisor and they are not in Comms, you can have one of the camp staff get a hold of them via radio. Additionally, the comms tent is where one must check out from camp for recreational purposes. Someone there can provide you with a radio, GPS and will handle your check out and check in (much the same as the McMurdo Firehouse).

Tent City

Tent City is laid out in a grid formation of 40x40ft numbered lots. Each of the green flags represents the center of a lot and the area where you should erect your tent if you will be staying for three or more nights. To select a lot, simply remove the green flag, place your tent where the green flag was and bring the flag to either the camp manager or supervisor. Each flag has a number (an address) that will be recorded and associated with your name. You are responsible for shoveling the area immediately around your tent and it would be wise to orient your tent to minimize drifting (we get a lot of this at Byrd) by facing the tent door into the prevailing wind. It is also important to note that the areas between the tents will be groomed by heavy machinery and so it is advisable not to leave anything (bamboo, shovels, personal gear, etc.) in the area around your tent. If you see a vehicle grooming tent city while you are on your way to or from your tent, please use extreme caution, as the driver might not be able to see you.

For guests staying less than three nights, there will be a tent in tent city already erected and assigned for you. Please contact the Camp manger or Supervisor for your assigned tent address.

Restricted Areas

KBA Berthing and Science Tents are restricted access tents for practical and safety reasons. Yes, waking up a sleeping KBA pilot is a very unsafe act. You will know in advance if part of your job requires access to these tents.

The snow mine is off limits to all except those who are tasked with getting snow from it. Without the proper orientation it is difficult to tell what areas of the mine are for walking and what areas will become tomorrow’s drinking water. If you really want to wander around in the snow mine, please let us know and we’ll give you a shovel and a big bucket.

The Taxiway (during flight activity) is restricted to all except those who are actively working a flight or performing maintenance. There are a variety of dangerous and hazardous materials in this area, not the least of which is the pilot of an LC 130 who spots you wandering around their plane.

The Skiway is open to all during non-flight hours and closed to all during flight rotations (1 hour before landing and up to an hour after off deck), hopefully for obvious reasons. Should you decide to use the skiway for any reason or if you are working in the vicinity of the skiway you are required to carry a radio with you so you can be notified of an unscheduled arrivals or departures.

Additional Documents

In addition to this document, there are a variety of other documents that should be read during the first day or two at Byrd Camp that will answer a lot of questions you might have and provide valuable information that will help to make your stay at Byrd camp more enjoyable and safer. These documents include:

Recreation Opportunities Alcohol Policy Storm Protocols Emergency Response

Thank you for your cooperation and efforts to help keep Byrd camp a safe and enjoyable work environment. Please let us know if there’s anything we can do to improve your stay here this season.

Byrd Storm Protocol

In the case of deteriorating weather conditions and/or a predicted storm, we will take measures to be sure that all persons in camp are safe and sheltered and that we’ve accounted for all personnel. As conditions worsen, be prepared to gather in the Galley tent and remain there as long as conditions dictate. Provisions will be made for food, water, temporary toilets and berthing as needed.

Weather Conditions

Condition 3 - Fair to marginal weather; approximately 0-20 knot winds

Condition 2 – Marginal to stormy weather; approximately 20-40 knot winds, visibility reduced to 500 meters or less; initiate “Storm Warning” throughout camp via VHF radio if storm is predicted to worsen.

Condition 1 – Severe storm weather; approximately 40-60 knot winds, visibility reduced to 20 meters or less (can’t see building to building consistently); all people to remain stationary in main camp structures.

Population Management

When winds reach 30-40 knots and are forecasted to increase, then everyone in camp should be prepared to gather in the Galley until the storm abates. Camp management, principle investigators, team leaders, shift leaders, and foremen should account for all members of their team/crew throughout the duration of a Condition I storm.

Preparations for a Condition I “lockdown” would include setting up ropes lines between buildings, gathering radios and spare batteries from all groups in camp, collecting sleep kits from tent city, having human waste/urine containers available in the Galley, and filling 5gal water jugs (located in the storage shed) in case of power outage. Ensure there are sufficient AN-8 drums staged by core camp buildings and propane cylinders by the Galley to last through a three-day storm.

Tent city dwellers should be aware of their row and tent position. A map of tent city should be kept in Comms. A perimeter flag line encircling tent city proved helpful in the past. This perimeter line was in a contrasting color to the main flag line leading from camp into tent city.

Equipment

A cache of emergency storm equipment is located on the side of the galley. The storm equipment cache includes: Rope line for upwind side of basic camp buildings Rope line from upwind door of Galley to Outhouse Central

Urine jugs, urine funnels, Human Waste buckets, toilet seats, and toilet paper wool blankets A spare bundle of flags is stored in the Storage Shed for storm use.

Cautions

Fire hazards increase during storms. Attention should be focused on keeping egress routes open and areas cleared around heaters. The downwind doors and vestibule doors become easily jammed open then vestibules become packed with snow and useless as an exit. Keep shovels both inside downwind vestibules and outside outer door. Downwind vestibules work great as makeshift outhouses.

Water should be conserved. Showers and laundry should be restricted.

Byrd Surface Camp Recreation

Overview

RnR Opportunities at Byrd

Despite being a remote and austere field camp, there are plenty of opportunities for recreation at Byrd. As with any deep field camp however, some of the recreational activities can become dangerous if not properly planned and prepared for. Below is list of recreational activities available at Byrd camp, along with the necessary precautions and procedures to help mitigate any dangers or injuries

Recreational Travel

Byrd camp has a variety of ski (hiking) routes that extend out from camp in all directions. There is ski equipment available from the comms tent that can be checked out, as well as a GPS and VHF radio. All ski routes are both physically flagged and marked as routes in the camps’ GPS systems. Conditions for travel outside of camp (traveling further than 0.25 miles from camp) are as follows.

• Travel is limited to condition 3 days only • Each party must check out with comms and provide an estimated time of return. • Each party must take a radio and a GPS and inform comms as to which route they are planning to

ski • Although travel is restricted to flagged routes only, new routes can be created by people who are

interested in doing so, provided the procedures for creating these routes are fully discussed with

camp management first • Some routes that extend beyond the visible range of camp must be traveled in groups of two or

Vehicle Usage

All vehicles at Byrd camp are for work related activities only. However, there are opportunities to accompany the vehicle operators during work related activities for those who are interested in learning more about vehicle operations at camp. Please contact camp management if this is something you are interested in doing.

Educational Rec

Members of the Byrd camp staff will be holding classes in their areas of expertise throughout the season for all camp residents who are interested. Such classes may include cooking, cpr/first aid, advanced medical treatment, vehicle operation, etc. If you are interested in hosting such a class please let us know and we can help set it up

Events

There will be a variety of events planned at Byrd from once off parties to regularly scheduled events, such as Sunday morning coffee bar, TV/Movie nights, etc. Please see the Rec board in the Galley for details of upcoming events. If there is an event you’d like to organize please let the camp management know so that we can get it scheduled and help you with any resources you need.

Equipment

Byrd camp has a variety of recreational equipment ranging from skis to board games. Some of the equipment is readily available in the galley whereas other equipment requires checkout. Please see camp management to check these out.

Week one back in Mac Town!

2010-11-21T01:00:00.007-05:00

On the job.

My address, should anyone want to send something (regular US postage rates) to (and therefore receive something in return from) the Antarctic.

BenUrmston, RPSC

McMurdo Station

PSC 469 Box 700

APO AP 96599-1035

On Saturday, I was sent north 20 miles or so to Tent Island. Scientists at Cape Royds need their internet and the repeater system (to retransmit the signal from the cape back and forth to town) needed new antennas. So I got to climb my first tower, albeit a wee one at about 10 feet high!

The new yagi antennas installed.

With me came Chuck, a comms tech. He would check the equipment at the base of the tower and I would swap antennas if need be. We left were dropped off near the apex of Tent Island and told we had about three hours.

The equipment was checked, and need be. I put on the harness and up I went, all of 4 feet! But a tower I was on, doing the job I got hired for. Off came the cylindrical antennas going both directions and on went the small yagi antennas. I managed to not drop anything, though this would be the tower to drop something on, since the comms tech could simply hand the thing back to me. I got everything tied up nicely with copper securing wire and then down I came - my first space walk completed. (Yes, I'm practicing for future space walks, of course.)

Chuck working on equipment.

We were there for another hour and a half or so. The wind had started out at near 20 knots and when we left was perhaps over 30 knots! It was chilly, but I kept warm (push-ups, small hikes, jumping jacks, lots of food and water) and was thankful for all the Outward Bound and NOLS training that has made me able to care for myself, as I listened Chuck say on the radio, "We're ready to get the hell out of here." I thought, "Speak for yourself..."

Helicopter came back and away we went back to town. Helicopters are truly amazing machines. Blows my mind.

Things are going well in McMurdo. Slowly reintegrating myself into the community and my work team. It's Sunday right now, my one day off a week. Went out for my first skate ski out on the road to Williams airfield. It was a beautiful day and I had a very nice ski. Soon to bed for a good sleep to start the week!

Job Description

2010-11-16T19:38:00.004-05:00

Responsibilities:The Antenna Rigger assists in the development, installation and maintenance of all guyed towers, freestanding towers and antenna support structures in the USAP (United States Antarctic Program). Installs and performs maintenance on various solar and wind-turbine power generation sites throughout the Antarctic continent.

Additional Responsibilities Include:
- Installs and maintains USAP HF, UHF/VHF, microwave & satellite antenna systems
- Installs and maintains solar and wind-turbine power generation systems
- Installs and maintains antenna radomes
- Develops and fabricates systems for securely installing antennae and other tower-mounted hardware
- Designs and installs technical rigging and rope-access systems
- Performs annual inspections and maintenance on antenna systems at USAP facilities: Palmer, South Pole, McMurdo, and deep field sites
- Maintains inventory and assists with re-supply
- Ensures that work areas meet all RPSC and USAP safety standards
- Frequently climbs towers up to 150' feet in height to perform all normal rigging duties as required
- Frequently lifts 40 pounds

Putting together my tool kit:

Back on the Ice!

2010-11-15T02:17:00.006-05:00

Ice!
More ice ! I love imagining Amundsen and Shackleton down here navigating their ships!

Pack ice! We're getting closer...

After a week of travel and trainings, I find myself back in McMurdo Station! Two and half days in Denver for OSHA trainings and general program orientation, a few hours in L.A. with brother Will at a funny comedy club, 13hours 10 minutes in an airplane flying over the Pacific, a day in a half in New Zealand for training and marveling at the most beautiful trees I have ever seen (Christchurch's Botanical Gardens) followed by this morning's 5 hour flight south and I am here.

It is wonderful to be back. Four years seem like nothing and I feel ready to pick up where I left off. Rumor has it, by joining the Antenna Rigger crew, I have one of the best jobs on the station, perhaps only second to helicopter pilot. I am in a small double room in building 210, though strangly there is noone else in the room right now. I thought I'd get put with at least one roomate! Probably tomorrow, someone will show up. I also have a window, which opens! That might take some getting used to, but I'm excited to have a little more space to play with this season.

I've met my team, they seem excellent, I think we're going to have a lot of fun while working hard. I'm scheduled to head out to Byrd field camp sometime in the next week or so. More to come soon!

The Admiral Is Put Down

2010-04-02T18:00:00.000-04:00

My aunt Lolly has been a horse vet for as long as I can remember. I had heard of her "putting down" people's horses for them, had heard of the owner's agonizing decision and even had seen some of our family cats and dogs be put down - slowly falling into the eternal sleep as we pet them, comforted them and cried together in a tight circle. Despite Lol's explanation of what was to come concerning Admiral's fate, I was in no way prepared (there was no way I could be) to see our horse named Admiral, who we think of as our brother, be put down.

Over a month has passed since the day on Cloudberry Farm and I have since been exploring the mountains of Wyoming and the canyons of Utah as an instructor for the National Outdoor Leadership School. I have had to set the memory aside from my brain, as it was too painful and distracting to me, but realizing that perhaps writing about it might help the continuing processing that is necessary when seeing a "brother" lose his life. So now as the students are enjoying a day of "solo" I sit on a rock and write in the Utah sun next to the Dirty Devil River.

He had lived with us for about 22 years of my 31. We love our animals, especially when they love us, and as such, Adi became a brother. His first decade of life, so I am told, was not a happy one. He lived in a stable, only turned out for this and that, and was an unhappy and "crazy" horse. Then somehow he ended up with us with three different fields to roam, competing in 3-day events and living next to his various horsy friends in our neighbor Deb's field.

I never took to riding nor do I know an extensive amount of information on horses. I know which side to be on before getting on a horse, I know how to talk to one, and I know how to look where I want to go and the horse will feel it. I don't know what kind of horse Adi is, though I should, or how many hands he is, I just know he is big, strong, and black with a white stripe down his nose (sorry if my terminology is off - I'm sure there is a name for "stripe down the nose" but I am in the canyons of Utah writing in my journal to be typed later.)

Adi was the Admiral, the lasting brother, older than the dogs, always there to greet us, even when the dogs were not. Though he could not wag his tail or run to the open car door upon our return, he was there with a look or a walk to the fence edge ever hoping we would walk over to say hello or goodnight. They were not usually long conversations, though sometimes he or I would linger at the fence.

And so it was that Adi was getting older. He was retired from eventing and spent a summer in Maine with other horses before returning to the farm in the fall. One of his eyes, he could not well see through and this winter, perhaps because he could not see well our of his right eye, struck his left eye with a branch of some sort. Painful and swollen the eye became and despite the unending care of my mother and her sister, the vet, it refused to get better. Adi was going blind, was in pain and Mom and Lol decided it was time for him to be put down, before he was in more pain.

Rationally, I can understand how someone can make such a decision. But when it came to the irrationality of actually ending a life, albeit peacefully and in great care and expertise, it was something that I am still trying to wrap my head around.

I believe the date was set half a week in advance. Adi's time to die was to be Monday, February 15th, 2010. The execution date was set. And herein it begins. Mom and Lol were sure of their decision. I was left to trust their wisdom in the matter and deal with it whatever way I was able. His execution date set, I wanted to visit with him frequently. He was bothered by the eye, I could tell, but I still enjoyed my visits. Questions raged inside my head, "Does he know?" and "Is it fair that he does not know, if he does not?"

Leading up to the scheduled day and time I had flashes of being about to graduate from high school. Excitedly I though, "This is the last time in English class! This is the last time in History class!" But now I was thinking, "Does he know this is the last time he will be put in for the night? Does he know this is his last night! Does he know he has less than a day alive on this planet with us?" His last days were filled with my questions. They were hard to answer and to even ponder but were nothing compared to saying goodbye to him for the last time.

At very last, the scheduled date and approximate time was upon us. Mom said she was getting to get Adi. At this point, events began to proceed faster than I could keep up with.

I walked with Mom down to the barn. This itself is a sacred task happening thousands and thousands of times over the many years, in all seasons, in all weather. But this was the last. We walked down together, burdened with the weight of the matter and task at hand. Mom went into the barn to get a bridle and rope as I opened the fence, knowing it would not need to be closed again. Adi was there. Standing in the middle of our front field - facing me as I walked out to him. Did he know his time had come? There was nothing I could do. Was this really happening? I spoke to him as Mom emerged from the barn and walked our way, savoring our last communion together. Mom arrived, speaking softly and gently to her Adi, as I pet him and Deb voiced her heartfelt condolences to us from over the fence.

And then we walked him to the barn, leaving the front field for the last time. So many times into the field and then called in before the end of the day. And now his last return...like the President being helicoptered away from the White House. Into the barn he went and into his stall.

At this point my sister, Farley, for whom Adi was bought, was there and Lol had arrived with her tools and supplies. As we stood there on the winter day in our coats Lol gratefully explained what I was to experience, having never seen a horse be put down. She said it is far more dramatic than putting down a cat or dog, that one cannot have a horse lie down before giving the injection, and that we have to remain clear of the horse because there is no telling which direction or how he will go down.

And so already with tears in my eyes I tried to prepare myself as events continued beyond my control of life understanding. A small injection was given to Adi in the neck so that a catheter could be put in his neck thus allowing the drugs to be administered to go directly into a vein. We watched as Lol skillfully put the catheter in. And then it was time for Adi to leave us. In his last fully conscious moments we said our goodbye, and gave him our pats. Lol then gave him the first of two doses of mild sedatives. This was to calm him so he wouldn't be confused or apprehensive of the coming events. It was then time to walk him out to the burial site.

All morning, Dad had nursed a burn pile on the spot where Adi was to be buried in an effort to thaw the winter ground enough so a back hoe could come in and dig a grave after Adi's life had ebbed away.

And so Mom led Adi out of the barn, for the last time. It was as though Adi knew what was coming - trusting Mom and Lol, just as I did, whether he understood them or not, he trusted them. He had for years.

He walked out, doing their will, again as he had for year, with wobbly legs and his head down, not knowing just trusting those who loved him and those he no doubt loved.

He was led to the spot next to where the fire had been by then burned down to ashes. The spot for him, the earth softened and selected to hold his bones and flesh when they were no longer living, before the day was out. Again I asked in my head, "Does he know?"

Lol gave him another dose of the sedatives, to calm him further in his last moments of life. We again circled him with pats and soft words knowing we could not hold onto the moment forever. We stepped away, my arm around my sister, Mom saying her final silent words and then she too stepped back. Lol stepped in, and though it all must have been hard for her too, she was business as she had to be. She told Mom she was ready and Mom said, "Anytime." Now with my mother under my left arm and my sister under my right, Lol gave Adi he injection of the barbiturates - an overdose that would quickly stop his heart. We watched and I wondered, the seconds last a long time. Adi put this head down, uttered a long and low sigh vibrating his lips as horses do. It was as though he was saying thank you, though he was saying goodbye, though he was releasing everything he had lived in his 30 or so years for us. As though his soul was escaping, though he didn't know what was happening, but he know to trust us and he knew it was time for his soul to move on. He was giving us everything he had for us to hold on to what we could.

And then he went down. And he was gone. The strong black body that lay before us was lifeless. The animal we had known for so long was there before us but the soul was already gone. His tongue hung out of his mouth. It was not the quite sleep from a smaller animal. It was fast, because it had to be, but I was not ready to see a brother lose the life within him, even though he trusted us so. Not ready to see the fall to the ground with death. Not ready to say goodbye to our friend and our family member.

I cried hard in my sister's embrace, not wanting to hold back the emotion I felt so raw. I was not the rider, was not his caretaker but I was a sibling and it is not easy to see one go.

I wonder what his thought were, I wonder what he would have said to us. The overriding feeling I get is trust. And somehow that makes it harder, makes me miss him more. He trusted us with his life....and his death. Yes, he is just a horse, but he was one of us for 22 years. We both lived most our lives at Cloudberry Farm, sharing the outside fields and trees and sky. Our separate lives intertwined in the casual greetings of the day or night.

Far had to leave to pick up her son at school while Mom, Lol, Uncle Tots and I, stood by our friend Adi. Lol cleaned up Adi's eye, taking out the stitches and treatment tube that was used to treat his wound and then braided a section of his tail for Far as if he was being readied for one last show. She cut the small braid off and then did one for me and my brothers, should they want one.

The backhoe came, began to dig and I said my last good bye to Adi's body, wishing I din't have to. It was time to leave as I did not want to see the horse moved into the gave by a backhoe. I walked back to the house, though Adi's fields, not knowing if they shall ever be another's. Mom and Dad plan to move soon, the fate of our home unknown. It was the end of an era.

Later that day, Lol said she placed Adi in a good position in his grave. Imagining the dirt slowly covering him up just adds to the pain of his being gone. I told Lol I was grateful for her kind explanation of what it would be like, doing everything she could to help us through the process. And in thanking her, the tears flowed freely again, as they have in writing this.

I talked about it with Mom and Dad and Far but I knew it had a way to go inside my head. It was just hard to explain all the questions I had - what it was like for Adi. I guess I am happy I felt he trusted us, I am happy Mom and Lol cared so much for him, am happy he had such a good life with us. But I am sad he is gone. And he is missed greatly. Driving in the driveway is lonely now, no matter hew many people are home as Adi was always the first to greet us. The transition from the road to know we were home.

The Admiral is gone, Lord of the Barnyard. Thank you for everything. We love you. Life is life and family is family. Live it like you mean it and don't waste the days.

Corwith Cramer C-226C, Part 2

2010-02-12T09:30:00.006-05:00

6 FEB: Each day students are assigned to the deck or to the lab (or to help with dishes). Of course, science deployments occur throughout each day. Always a neuston tow at noon and at midnight. My focus, though, has always been the deck. As a student in the lab, I remember being in the lab when the call came from deck that hands were needed. I remember turning my head toward the hatch, feeling like a dog, who has just realized his owner is putting on his running shoes. I will always love sail handling, plotting our course, and navigating with with celestial bodies.

Dawn watch in the lab this morning, but I was free to do as I pleased as students were working on their science presentations and my services as a sign language interpreter were not needed. I spent the whole four hours organizing my celestial navigation progressions and outlines and getting ready for the approaching morning nautical twilight (when the sun is 12 degrees below the horizon). This is a time when it is light enough to see the horizon, but still dark enough to see the bright navigational stars. When the twilight came, just before turning over to C watch for the morning watch, I got angles of Vega, Mars and the moon. It will forever amaze me that one can figure out one's position from three celestial bodies!

8 FEB: Spent the afternoon on Garden Key exploring Fort Jefferson, interpreting classes on the history and natural history of the Civil War era fort. We all went snorkeling after class, though it was "worse than pole." "Pole" was our first real Crazy Horse snorkeling endeavor and therefore our reference: it had clear water, but nothing to look at except sea grass, tiny lobsters and a pole in the water. Needless to say it was good to stretch the legs on the island and give the arms a bit of exercise with some butterfly strokes in the ocean.

9 FEB: Underway again. Dawn watch again this morning. Got my celestial sights (this morning from Vega, Altair, Antares and the crescent moon.)in and worked out what is really required to get the latitude and longitude from the heavens:

1 instrument error measured

3 angles measured

3 times recorded and converted to universal time

27 tabes entered to get 36 numbers

30 arithmetic exercises

9 lines drawn on a plotting sheet

7 latitude or longitude distance measurements

Naturally, it is quite satisfying to have a position that is within a mile of the actual position when checked with the GPS!

A cold front came through during the evening watch when we had the deck. The winds had been light and variable but we knew from the VHF radio that the front was going to hit very soon. It took all of a few minutes for the winds to jump to over 30 knots. We were out on the bowsprit furling the jib in the darkness as it really hit and the rain started to fall, first as a few little drops, and then a downpour the clear sky above us was overcome by a cover of clouds as though someone was pulling them over us like a blanket. It was quite exciting to be out on the bowsprit, with a job to do, in the strong wind and rain. I could hear the students' nervous excitement in their voices as we got the jib in nice and tidy-like. Afterwards, one of the students said, "That felt like war!" For students who have never been out to sea before, it is pretty intense to be suspended on a net above the black ocean, that with each wave threatens to reach up and soak them, furling a sail in the darkness by feel and cooperation as the temperature drops suddenly. Everyone was very focused and as I unclipped from the bowsprits safety wire with my windward side soaking wet, I was very happy. I love moments like that. And the students will never forget it.

10 FEB: Back at Key West. Our watch brought the ship in under 30 knots. Overall, it was a wonderful sail and interpreting on a sailboat for a wonderful student, named Shanna, was really a great experience. I was assigned to wherever she was assigned and was there to interpret the deck lectures and wherever else I could help with the communication - on deck at night wearing a red headlight to illuminate my face and hands, while trying disturb anyone's night vision. It was great that I was very familiar with the Cramer and how the ship is run. I certainly have a long way to go in terms of my interpreting skills and I was grateful for Shanna's patience, positive attitude and good natured feedback. I was also grateful when, after I misspelled "chlorophyll" and "phytoplankton" for the millionth tim, she was not annoyed but said it was, "endearing." She certainly taught me a lot. And hopefully she learned a little bit from me and the rest of the crew of the Cramer.

12 FEB: Back at Mystic now. Finally here and in bed by 0300 and though I wanted to sleep a long normal length sleep, I was awake at 0715. Oh well, lots to do. I certainly miss my bunk though. Like a little cave of wondrous sleep. It is strange to walk through the hall of the Mystic staff house without leaning first towards one wall and then towards the other in coordination with the ships rolls back and forth as she cuts through the water. There is always a satisfaction when that skill comes back. To walk through a passage way in complete balance in a heavy sea...Already I miss the sense of accomplishment that comes with one day out at sea. And of course I always miss the team, and being part of a crew on a mission. It's what I live for.

Soon to head home and get ready for the NOLS semester course which I will start briefing for in about a week. Just found out I'll be working the first section (back country skiing) with Rob Lloyd of Crazy Horse and now Fishers Hornpipe lore! Needless to say our students are going to have fun as we cavort around the backcountry together.

I will miss these Williams-Mystic students and faculty, who have become my shipmates. They are wonderful and they are lucky to be in such a wonderful program. To finish with a quote, from Oliver Wendell Holmes that I have had in the front cover of my journal since the summer sailing Downeast with Outward Bound:

"I find the greatest thing in the world is not so much where we stand, as in what direction we are moving. To reach the p[rot of heaven, we must sail sometimes with the wind, and sometimes against it, but we sail, and not drift, nor live at anchor."

Corwith Cramer C-226C, Part 1

2010-02-12T08:16:00.007-05:00

1 FEB: On the Cramer again. It is wonderful to be a sailor again. We spent the morning and afternoon with orientation and trainings: fire, man-overboard, and abandon-ship drills were carried out and the students were broken in into 3 "watches." My watch was B-watch and our jobs for the drills was sail handling - passing, striking or whatever sail handling was needed in the emergency.

The smells of the ship immediately took me back to my experience as a deckhand on the Cramer (3 weeks in the summer of '02 sailing off the coast of New England) and then before that as a student on the Cramer's sister ship, Westward during the fall of '99 sailing from Woods Hole, MA to St. Croix). The memories connected with the smells are amazing. The scent of the galley, the engine room, the heads and the labs - they are overwhelming and memories come flooding back.

After sailing aboard Crazy Horse and learning a lot about electronics and batteries and engines, Cramer's engine room was a fantastic place. I spent a lot of time with usty, the engineer, who head also been my engineer 10 years ago. Now 10 years later, I could ask intelligent questions and discuss the amperage, voltage, wattage and other operational details of the systems on board. Needless to say, I was fascinated by it and now hope to someday soon work as an Assistant Engineer on SEA's other boat, the Robert C. Seamans.

3 FEB: Getting my sea legs under me as students struggle to find theirs in this alien environment. There have been many "donations to Neptune," the God of the sea, as the students lose their lunches...dinners...and breakfasts...over the side in painful resignation. I felt a bit "lumpy," as we said on Crazy Horse, for a few days and on account of being in the choppy Gulf Stream waters, as we made our way west towards the Dry Tortugas. For lunch we had delicious burritos and I had felt better than ever. But soon, the feeling changed and I was on the lee rail looking at the water in a state of a bit of miserywondering which of the next handful of seconds, my stomach was going to tighten like it can in no other way and my lunch was going to be launched out of my body and into the turbulent waters below. This, accompanied with the humility that comes with making donations to Neptune, makes for a demorilizing ordeal.

I dry heaved twice and amazingly that was it - very thankful to not have donated. I felt spared - as if Neptune was quietly saying, "I could have gotten you if I really wanted to..." No one ever beats the sea, beats Neptune...that's what I love about it. People think they can conquer the mountains, but noone thinks they can conquer the sea. It's power is just too great. And therefore it is amazing sense to be in harmony with it, especially because it often doesn't seem to last too long. And oh, the feeling of crawling into my bunk (top bunk, all the way aft on the starboard side)...relief like no other kind.

5 FEB: Three watches rotate in 5 shifts throughout the day, so over the course of three days, each watch has stood all shifts of the day. Dawn watch 0300-0700 gets the sunrise but also has "dawn clean-up," a not so fun daily clean of the ship's below decks. The there is morning watch 0700-1300. One of two long watches (6 hours, while the others three are 4 hours), this watch is a good chunk of time where we are all used to being awake and at work. 1300-1900 is the afternoon watch which includes the distraction of having an hour or two of reports of engineering, weather, navigation and science completed during the last 24 hours, and this is followed by a class on the literature of the sea, a topic of nautical science or oceanography.

The evening watch, 1900-2300 is a pleasant one and usually involves the fun of sailing into the darkness. And of course, there is mid-watch, 2300-0300, which typically involves the infamous galley clean up, though sometimes it is now done by the evening watch these days. It is not to best job especially if tired and on a rolling sea.

Lots of sail handling today. Always a good activity and always makes the deck watch fly by. Started the day with 30 knots of wind!

Here is what meal time looks like below. Do not let the table hit your knees or things will slide what seems to be uphill! The second video is of A watch, who has just taken the deck for night watch. (The lights on the mast - red over green - mean we are a vessel currently under sail power.)

Spaceships, Sailing Vessels and Mystic Seaport

2010-01-29T19:50:00.007-05:00

Out west I went last November to do a training course with the Wilderness Medical Institute of NOLS and teach a NOLS backcountry ski section of a semester course. I passed the very rigorous medical training and then headed into the backcountry with only about 50 cm of snow. It was not ideal skiing conditions (or even traveling conditions) considering we had to put our skis on our sleds. But we had fun and played in the backcountry and I quite enjoyed when the temperatures plummeted to -26 degrees C. It was a wonderful feeling to feel as though I was back on the Ice again!

But now gears have been changed, for just a short bit. I am in Mystic, Connecticut working as a sign language interpreter for a Deaf college-student attending the excellent Williams-Mystic semester program. It's my first real job as an interpreter and after a two hour session of interpreting, I'm amazed that I'm a real paid-interpreter (if not yet certified). I've had lots of help and feedback from my partner in crime, and I'm learning a lot. (The students are all hopefully becoming State Radio fans with their new CDs.)

This week is the first week of the program and it has been preparing the students for the 11 days we are about to spend in the Florida Straits on S.E.A.'s Corwith Cramer (a ship I worked on as a deck hand in 2002.) It'll be quite fun to be on the ship again, sextant in hand, doing everything is sign language! I plan to enjoy it as much as I enjoyed Space Camp during Deaf Week a few years ago! Similarly, I plan to enjoy the experience and get more out of it than any of the current students, but that I'm used to. No doubt, some of their lives will be changed, as mine was when I sailed on the Westward in 1999. They are in for a trip, and I am excited to see them go through the process.

To follow our progress go to the Williams-Mystic website: http://www.williams.edu/williamsmystic/expeditions/offshore.html

We'll be offshore from Feb. 1 - 11.

I have been in a very excited state of vehicle bliss. I'm surrounded by cool sailing ships, recently spent a number of days doing some electrical work on Rob Lloyd's new boat (www.fishershornpipesail.blogspot.com) and then listened to a lecture on the similarities of aircraft and vessels of the sea. Then I spent yesterday's down time on the Nautilus nuclear submarine built in the 1950's. Needless to say, submarines likeness to spaceships, make me love them - except the missile and war part of the things. Since I don't ever plan on joining the services, I'll just have to get my very own vessel someday to pretend I'm on a spaceship. The sailboat will be named Apollo 8 (the first human voyage to another celestial being - the moon) so that when someone calls me on the radio, I can feel like I'm in space! Someday...soon!

Some pics from Rob's boat:

The old wiring set up.

Part-way finsished.

Upstream and downstream complete! Doing the wiring on a boat is something that soothes my soul. Such order in the chaos! I don't really understand it but I love making the connections that will help make this boat operate again. It's like connecting the nerves on Frankenstein. We're slowly bringing this ship back to life. And of course, I feel like I'm on a space station...

After the 11 day sail, I'll head back west to work a NOLS semester course out of the Rocky Mountain branch where I'll be instructing all sections: Wilderness First Aid, skiing, canyoneering, rock climbing and river kayaking/rafting over 87 days! I even get to work the last section with two of my cousins!!!!

That's as far as I know! The rest has yet to come but floating out there are another season of Deaf soccer, another airplane voyage, and more work in Antarctica! Also trying to find a good light weight HAM radio so that Dad and I can get back on the air - perhaps in Morse Code as "CW" takes less power which is paramount if I'm going to be carrying the thing. Life is good! And I hope it is with you as well!

Departures

2009-10-29T23:04:00.002-04:00

And once again I find myself outward bound. The room has been cleaned, my coaches locker cleaned out at school, and everything cleaned up, with as many loose ends tied as possible. Savoring the moments in the comfort of my home, I strike out again for another task. This one for a Instructor Training Course with the Wilderness Medical Institute of NOLS. New people, a new place, new challenges and uncertainty. It is hard to leave the family and the friends. It is hard to leave the community that speaks with their hands. It is all challenging, and can be stressful, but it brings new life and excitement of which I live for.

All to0 quickly I am across the country. Strange to think that it would take 5 days to drive here but I can close my eyes, and suddenly I am here in a matter of mere hours. Commercial air travel is something I never get used to. Just north of Seattle for the night, then a 19 hour drive to Lander, Wyoming. My truck, Timmy, has been waiting for me here, and it was wonderful to see him again. I greeted him like I would one of our dogs. Timmy and I have been through a lot together. Reliable and always ready! The adventure continues.

Downeast Maine!

2009-10-25T21:49:00.004-04:00

A 28-day sailing course taking me my co-instructor 100 miles "downeast" almost to the Canadian border! I'd done the legs of the journey to and from fabled Cross Island but never the round trip, and never as Captain of the ship. So finally after too many years of putting it off, I got the course!

The course was wonderful. 300 miles were made over the course of 28 days. It was wonderful to be back in a pulling boat and really go on an expedition. No circles, no futsing around, just getting ourselves through the fog and rain and wind to Cross Island and then back.

My partner in crime: Dr. Ice (aka D. Rice)

Mistake Island!

The view from Cross Island: an array of 26 radio towers used to communicate with underwater submarines. Fascinating!

Waddington Mountaineering in B.C.

2009-10-21T20:29:00.006-04:00

Here we are in the Waddington Range! Excuse the out of orderness of the pics and writings. The task of updating everything is a bit overwhelming and some things are working and some are not.

We had to move through days of this stuff.

Slide alder...a cherished sight. Yeah, right. Better than devil's club perhaps...

The Jenga!
Mother Teresa is a wicked mountaineer!

The Waddington Range of British Columbia...in all it's splendor, we did see for 30 days in June and July. The quick story is we had a student go anaphalactic on the first night because of eating a sandwhich with buckwheat in the bread - she went to the hospital and rejoined the course late that night. It was an interesting way to start the course...waiting in a Canadian Provincial Park, a bit out of the way, for half an hour for an ambulance to come, hoping the student's airway did not swell shut. (She had already given herself a shot of epinephrine and Benedryl doesn't work for her.)

The bushwacking began: 3 days of moving 1/3 of a mile for each arduous hour. We sweated our way only 3 miles for 9 hours of toil. I would be in the lead sometimes wondering how these students are following me, and not knowing how I was going to get through what we called "the jenga" - a lincoln log array of fallen pine trees that had succumbed to the pine beetle infestation.

But eventually we made it to the snow and alpine territory, and it was beautiful. We climbed some wonderful peaks and had long days of glaciated mountain travel. It was fantastic to be back in the same mountain range that I'd been on two years ago, some new territory, and some old.

We had many crevasse punch throughs, but thankfully no one went through more than up to their waist. There were some exciting times though, and some HUGE, GAPING crevasses that we crossed on relatively small snow bridges. That's all for now. Hopefully the pics will tell some of the rest of the story.

The above picture is from climbing Jubilee Peak. We awoke early and as we made our way up the peak, the sun rose EXACTLY between the two peaks of Mt. Waddington. It was an amazing sight. Many things had to align for that to work out!

To the Waddington

2009-06-17T02:04:00.003-04:00

Students come in the morning, the endless list are getting smaller and smaller and transitioning to field lists of things to do. Generally much more enjoyable than the precourse lists such as: Pull and check: fuel bottles, library, tents, stoves, ropes, rock climbing gear, ice screws, snow pro, and on and on...decide how much food to take, look at the students medicals, the route, pull the maps,...The whole process reminds me of high school musicals. A week to go, it always seemed like we were never going to be ready but we always were. And now we're ready, oddly enough. though there are many details to take care of after the students get here tomorrow morning at 7:20am. It'll be non-stop activity until 3:30 when we are scheduled to leave.

A day and a half of driving to the interior of B.C. then a week of heavy bushwacking and then days and days in the snow and in the mountains. We probably won't see anyone except Mike, who will resupply us via helicopter! We'll be out for a month and hopefully in the process make some mountaineers, as well as better communicators, leaders and environmentally conscious people. Generally, my aim is to make better people. i'll do my best. That's it for now! To Infinity and Beyond!

Update

2009-06-14T23:12:00.002-04:00

Yes, it's been a while, except for the Mozambique post, but the trip to Mozambique was almost a year ago. Since then:
Soccer coaching of The Learning Center for the Deaf's Varsity Boys team,
A NOLS sailing course in Baja with co-instructor, and member of the Crazy Horse Team, Rob Lloyd. This trip involved much spear fishing and free diving - we caught about 300 lbs of fish during the month.
A few weeks with brother Will in Venice, CA riding the waves...
Then NOLS Avalanche Training followed by split snowboard training, followed by rock climbing training. Then some personal trips, a Crazy Horse reunion in Moab Utah, involving lots of desert golf (9 irons, tennis balls, and holes such as: "around that tree, off the rock and into the fire pit.")
Teaching a NOLS instructor course - quite fun to have some influence on a small group of instructors. Some will be working this summer - I feel like a father having taught my kids what they need to know, now they have to figure out the rest for themselves. Dealing with an empty nest now, but the nest is about to be refilled in a few days.

Briefing for a month long mountaineering course starts tomorrow. Two other instructors and I will be taking 12 students into the mountains of British Columbia in order to school them in the ways of mountaineering, leadership, and living in tune with the planet. (They'll also learn a bit about State Radio, Sign Language and moon rockets - but those things aren't on the NOLS curriculum...yet.)

Excuse the speedy catch up, but the prospect of writing everything was so daunting, it was not happening. Now I will try to stay up with things. I will try to get pics up later. Into the Waddington Range of B.C.!

MOZAMBIQUE

2009-05-30T11:03:00.006-04:00

After a full eleven months of working at the Deaf school plus spending about three weeks of vacation working with Deaf groups in the wilderness, it was time to take a personal vacation.

With a good friend's peace corp stint in Mozambique almost finished, I grabbed the opportunity to visit her. Leaving everything going on at home was challenging but I managed to get packed up and on the plane. Four long planes and two cab rides later and having crossed both the prime meridian as well as the equator, I arrived in Jenny's rual village of Amatongas.

One of the most memorable experiences from those first days was going to church. Being a mixture of Portuguese and local dialects, I understood nothing. I sat there on a little wooden log enjoying the faces, the singing, and the whole scene. Toward the end of the service and after the preacher gave the entire serman again in English for my sole benefit, he had me and Jenny come before the congregation to introduce me (everyone already knew Jenny). I was introduced and then he asked if we'd like to shake hands. I nodded and soon realized he meant with the whole congregation. So up they came one by one and Jenny I greeted each one. A fantastic way to be introduced to the community.

On the way home it was requested that we stopped by a local man's home to offer prayers of well-being. He was suffering from Malaria. He came outside, looking cold in his jacket, and we prayed and all offered what we could in the form of words and prayers.

Before I left home I looked around my room to see if there was anything else I should bring. I spied a flashlight that had a laser on it and thought it might be fun to play with. And one early evening just as it had gotten dark I decided to try it out.

From inside the house with the laser point through a hole in the screen door I turned it on. Suddenly one kid noticed it and yelled, "Itcho!" I turned it off..and then on again...and soon began the calls and laughter that we would hear most nights afterwards. From 5 to more than 10 kids running about the sand yard yelling "itcho, itcho, ITCHO!" which later we found out means, "There!"

The kids would chase the little red light all around the year, trying to step on it, slap it, or even cup it in their hands. They quite enjoyed themselves and the joy and delight that we could feel in their laughter was exquisit. They ran around and around and around until they were exhausted, though still wanting more, at which point they were sent home. Needless to say, the "itcho," as we began to call the laser, staying in Amatongas so Jenny could continue the fun.

Another day while Jenny was making soap and knitting with some of the community's women, I wandered over to the abandoned train station as I though I heard some sort of ball game happening. Northing was happening but soon I was to play some of the most fun soccer I have ever played.

The station was one big room - doors on either end to serve as goals. I was told I was on a team awith two boys and we began to play. We did not have a regulation soccer ball. Instead we had maybe the coolest soccer ball I have ever played with. It was Mateo's ball - carefully handcrafted with definite skill, maturity and quiet pride. An inflated condom served as the ball's core. Around this were wrapped discarded plastic bags and this was all wrapped in bits and pieces of yarn or strips of fabric. More plastic bags were added followed by more yarn. The finished product was amazing. Perfectly round and wonderful to play with.

We played and played and played then took a break for lunch and then went back to play some more. None of these kids knew much English and I know little Portuguese. We knew numbers of each others' languages to keep track of the score - and the rest we did through smiles and gestures. I was heartbroken when the kids said, "mana?" meaning "tomorrow?" - asking if I could play again. At last they understood that I was going home to America.

Not knowing if I'd ever return, I didn't want to leave. I know I would love playing with the kids but I didn't really understand how impactful the whole experience would be . These kids have nothing except what they make or find. And they are independent, strong and happy. There is so much to write, but it is still overwhelming, so I've just picked out a few memories. Hopefully the pictures will tell more. I was there for only a short time, but it was an amazing time that I shall not forget any time soon. I hope to return, for the people, the soccer, the land, and of course, a few more rounds of itcho. Thank you, Jen!

TLC-OB Sailing

2009-01-06T10:30:00.001-05:00

THE LEARNING CENTER FOR THE DEAF – OUTWARD BOUND

(A Letter to our sponsers:)

After three days of paid “course prep”, more than six months of planning, and maybe five years of my own dreaming, the students arrived with the noon sun. With only seven days together, we did our best to get onto the boats with an expediency of two instructors who know the power of life at sea. We checked their gear, gave them heavy duty foul weather gear (we would need them) and life jackets otherwise known as personal flotation devices. Then we had gave our required US Coast Guard briefings and an introduction to the 30-foot sprit rigged wooden ketch known to its sailors as a pulling boat. Finally, we granted our new sailors permission to come aboard, stow their gear and get ready to shove off. This is where the first challenge was given to them.

My co-instructor, John Wilcox, gave the “watch” the task. They needed to figure out how to get off the dock and to the mooring, which was about 30 yards away. They were given 5 minutes to make a plan, and then we shoved off.

It was not the prettiest rowing I have ever seen, but for this rowing initiative, it is never pretty. The beautiful part is watching the understanding that comes during the discussion afterwards – that they see it helps to have the rowers face the rear of the boat so they can see the captain, that it helps to approach from downwind, that the watch needs to plan out the entire maneuver, not just the beginning of it. They understand, not because we told them, but because they tried first, recognized some things worked, some things didn’t, and then could understand the why behind how best to move a pulling boat under oars. This learning methodology continued throughout the course.

We left our home port of Wheeler Bay under oars at around 1800 hours and were anchored safely in Long Cove at 1900 hours with a light southerly breeze of about 5 knots. John stayed in the cockpit to help the cooks make our dinner while I took the rest forward and taught them how to set up our shelter. Soon dinner was deliciously had, our shelter was up, the rotating anchor watch was explained and tired bodies were ready for their first night of sleeping on the oars – our long wooden oars are laid from bow to stern and students sleep on their foam pads which are laid over the oars. (Sounding worse than it is, I once had one watch so accustomed to sleeping on the oars that when we spent a night on a tent platform on Hurricane Island, the group elected to bring the oars to the tent platform so they could sleep on them.)

I was delighted to be woken up many times that first night by the anchor watch person as it proved to me that the students were taking their job seriously. The students questioned the rocks, the tide, and the anchor. These students were on it. And I could rest a little easier knowing they would not hesitate to sound the alarm should anything be amiss.

After each person serving roughly an hour’s anchor watch and sleeping a night on the oars, it was 0500 hours – wake up time. And then “dip” time. Each day, much to the early morning disgruntleness of students (and some staff), we take a “dip” into the ocean – to clean ourselves and to wake ourselves up. It can be quite enjoyable, especially after the fact, and frequently one student will tell another with a shrug of the shoulders, who is preparing for the morning ritural, “It’s not that bad.” After all, it was the end of July when the temperature of the water was a balmy 58 degrees F. This contrasts to the May water (and air) temperatures of the mid 40’s.

Breakfast was had, an introduction lesson on the charts was given, some new knots were learned and were were finally ready to sail. We raised our sails, lifted the “hook” at 0930h and were on our way south towards Burnt Island. We had a delightful sail, and the students learned the fundamentals of sailing – points of sail, tacking, gibing – along with more terminology – being in irons, leeward, windward, and so on. By the time we arrived at Burnt, they could tack and gibe and take the boat where they wanted. There was still some refining to do but they were doing very well for the first day of sailing.

The following morning we had a 0500 wake up and went for a run on Burnt Island. It was nice to get our legs on land again since we hadn’t been on land at all during the previous day. We ran through woods and fields and then took our dip off the Burnt Island pier which, at low tide, was about 15 feet above the water. This proved exciting for some and very challenging for others. All made the jump and all were awake and excited afterwards either for the fun of the jump or for the satisfaction of pushing through their fears. Back to the boat for breakfast and then out to the east (cliff) side of the island where the students would begin to understand what is known as “the brotherhood (or sisterhood) of the rope.” Climbing is rarely a solo sport, and there was much teamwork in getting each person to the top of their climb. With each climb a belayer standing below, in control of the rope, stood just above the high tide line. As most of the students had never climbed before, nor thought that they might be able to scale a near vertical 30 foot rock face, all were happy and excited at the end.

After regrouping at the boats, we prepared for solo drop. One by one, and armed with only the essentials, we dropped the students off around the outer edge of the island. They would be alone during the afternoon and night - something that is increasingly rare in this day and age. They would generally enjoy the time to themselves after a day and a half of being on a 30 foot boot with 7 other people. They would have time to reflect on the first part of the course, the upcoming second part of the course, their life, or they could chose to do nothing at all. But regardless of what they planned to do, being alone on an island coast is an impactful experience.
I walked past each person’s solo site just before dark to make sure all was well. Some students were already asleep while others were sitting on a rock or log, quietly looking over the ocean. It is always a peaceful time.

We had a long way to go the following morning so students were picked from their solo sights at first light. All were well and when we discussed the experience over breakfast, it became apparent that the experience of being alone with only a tarp as shelter on the edge of an island on the Maine coast was not something that they will forget. Clearly, some self-confidence had been gained during the night.

The fog had rolled in during the night and it was to stay with us for two days. We had hoped to cross West Penobscot Bay and anchor near Hurricane Island but with the fog, the Northeast headwinds, and a foul tide, we soon realized it would be safer not to cross so that we would not be caught out in the fog as the sun went down. The navigation in the fog kept us busy, recording our headings and our speeds to give us dead reckoned positions on the chart. We made it to Mosquito Head cove and spend a nice evening there. With a light rain that had begun, the tarp was set up quickly and soon we had a cozy cocoon of warmth and relative dryness in which to cook dinner, write in our journals and chat before the meal.

As is normally the custom for a Hurricane Island sailing course, with everyone holding hands, a quote is shared with the group and followed by a moment of silence before our meal. But apparently this was no ordinary course. As you will see at the end of the video, this moment of silence quickly became a time where we would all shake our hands, laugh and smile at one another.

The fog continued the next day and we made slow progress back towards Wheeler Bay. We all took turns at the oars and made our way with a combination of wind power and human power. Rowing always makes the students very appreciative of the wind. We arrived the following day after a beautiful morning sail – what luxury to have a good wind and good visibility. The fog had finally cleared to reveal the beautiful Maine coast and a perfect wind had come up. An Outward Bound boat full of instructors came a few miles out to say hello and then it was time to head in. We arrived to many staff waving and smiling to welcome us home. After doing a very thorough boat and gear clean, we had a wonderful last evening meeting in which we discussed each day of the course and each student told what the course had meant - and was going to mean - to them.

On the morning of their pickup the students had their final challenge. The “marathon” - a long early morning run after a pulling boat row out to a buoy. The run completed and one last dip taken, it was time for the course to end. The students exchanged course certificates with their peers, in turn, commenting on how each person helped to make our group a great one.

Tears were coming from student eyes as they pulled away in the van and parents have told me of lasting effects. I wish the course had been longer but I was so happy that it really happened. We had rain, fog, sailing, rowing, rock climbing, swimming, running and lots of games. The students stayed positive throughout the whole course and showed great support of one another. There were many times when the whole boat was overtaken with laughter. As to what else the students have learned, I will let the DVD and the students’ sponsor letters speak for themselves. Thank you again for all your support.

Sincerely,

Ben Urmston and the intrepid crew of Pulling Boat #6

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do then by the ones you did. So throw off the bowline, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

HELP US BE OUTWARD BOUND!

2008-07-13T21:33:00.004-04:00

Hello gang,

I have set up and am instructing a one week Outward Bound sailing course this summer, July 28-August 3, on the coast of Maine. I work at The Learning Center for the Deaf, in Framingham, MA, and when I noticed a lack of outdoor educational programs for Deaf youth, I decided to set up a course with Outward Bound, for whom I’ve been working for since 2001.

Outward Bound’s missions is ''To inspire character development and self-discovery in people of all ages and walks of life through challenge and adventure, and to impel them to achieve more than they ever thought possible, to show compassion for others and to actively engage in creating a better world."

I’ve seen the impact an Outward Bound course can have on all types of youth and I want this opportunity to be available to the Deaf youth I’ve been working with in Framingham and in other local Deaf school programs. Outward Bound has been very generous in giving every student a 50% scholarship, but at the reduced cost of $630 per student it is still too much for some to afford. We currently have six students but are required to have eight to have the program run. The students who are in need are already writing letters and doing what they can to raise the funds themselves.

If you want to help these students and Outward Bound’s Deaf programming please send what you can, no amount is too small, made out to Outward Bound, to Benjamin Urmston, 79 Hollis Street, Sherborn, MA 01770. In return for a donation you will receive a DVD of our course and a letter describing the highlights of our course. Thank you for your support and for helping these kids to be OUTWARD BOUND!!!!

Deaf Week at SPACE CAMP

2008-05-04T16:38:00.005-04:00

Since I had forgotten I wanted to be an astronaut between the school years of kindergarten and my junior year of high school, I never really had the chance to go to space camp...that is...until now.

Yes, it is true, I spent a six days of my April vacation in Huntsville, Alabama at SPACE CAMP'S Deaf Week. The Learning Center sent 6 sixth graders, me and two middle school teachers to Huntsville for a week of shuttle simulations, model rocket launches, space history, science lectures, and spinning chairs to ride in. Many months ago, my middle school supervisor had asked, during a department meeting, "Would any of you be willing to go to SPACE CAMP during your April vacation?" As many of you can imagine, my hand shot up. Here was the opportunity to go to SPACE CAMP, and get paid for it!

There were many Deaf schools at SPACE CAMP during the week many interpreters floating between groups with our other teachers picking up the slack.

It is still not clear who had more fun, the sixth graders or me. The other staff and I had a break rotation, but instead of going back to my room to read or catch up on sleep, I would head directly for the huge Saturn V rocket or the shuttle landing simulator.

We even got to do a staff shuttle mission so would know what the student would experience. I got to be the shuttle pilot - orange flight suit and all. I worked with the commander to solve all the problems that the flight controllers gave us. It was excellent. The students later did theirs and had video screens in which to sign to each other instead of communicating over the radio.

Needless to say, I was exhausted by the end of the week from the excitement of it all, and from seeing how excited our students got. It was a fabulous week and we all got a taste of what it's like to do a space walk, walk on the moon, feel what it's like in a spinning spacecraft, and many other things.

The SPACE CAMP staff loved our kids, and our counselor is now planning on taking sign language classes this spring. Many of the counslors were eager to learn the language and worked well with interpreters. Everyone was impressed with how our kids worked together and flew their missions. It made me very proud and I was very excited to see how much all the kids got out of the week. So maybe there are some future Deaf astronauts among us. I mean, don't they realize that if someone is space walking and the radio malfunctions...their going to need to communicate in ASL! I hope someday we see a Deaf astronaut.

Well, now we're back from Space, and trying to get used to life on Earth again. It is a beautiful world we live in. And don't forget to look at the stars every now and then. It's frightening how easy it is not to notice them. To infinity...and BEYOND!

Physical Education

2007-12-12T21:25:00.001-05:00

It is official. I love gym class. I always have. And I always will.

Today we moved on from the basketball unit, which I quite enjoyed, to the racquet sports. My eyes quickly gazed upon the square wooden paddles that are used in one of my favorire sports: pickle ball. Some of you know what I'm talking about. Yeah...that's what I'm talking 'bout. The gym teacher then asked me, "Do you have any experience with racquet sports?" "Scoop of chocolate, scoop of vanilla...don't waste my time," is how I should have answered. Instead, I just said, "Yup." I looked at the tennis racquets, the badminton racquts, and the pickle ball racquets and all the memories of these sports I played in high school gym came back to me.

Running out to the tennis courts as fast as we could to get in as many games as we could into what was I think 45 minutes of a normal school period - a miraculously short time when the likes of athletic games with friends are concerned.

Then badminton - and the realization that badminton is no game to be played on lazy sunday picnics, but a game that deserves respect, to those that can wield the long racquet with finess and power.

And of course - pickle ball. The game that came out of nowhere, but captivated no less than a handful of us enthusiastic gym goers (some may have unflattering names for us) - saddened by the fact that gym class was only two days a week for juniors and seniors. (It just didn't add up...as juniors and seniors we should have more priviledges than the freshman and sophomores, and we should therefore have more gym classes.)

Race out of class we would when we heard the buzzer and into the locker room. Shame on you should arrive late, or be slow to change into your gym clothes. Test or no test, we demanded timeliness. No strings on the pickle ball racquets, just wood, and a whiffle ball type ball. A small net and let the games begin...And now let the games begin again.

Warming up pickle ball style with a student, the gym teacher noticed our competence and asked if we'd do a demonstration for the rest of the class (the whole 30 student middle school). It was fun vollying back and forth and when we had finished our volly demonstration the teacher said, "That was really good." Needless to say, the student and I were quite pleased with ourselves.

My deepest respects go out to Ross - Rosco-pico-train, my partner in crime for most of these racquet games and other gym activites.

Prior to this day of gym, I along with the other teacher's aides had come to gym class, or "P.E." as some like it to be called, wearing normal work clothes. Today, though, I brought my gym clothes. As soon as the end of gym class sign is given, I raced for the basketballs for what has now become, for me and a few enthusiastic and talented middle school students - one of whom was my partner for the pickle ball demonstration - our customary series of wildly intense knock-out (foul lind and three-point line distance). Last Wednesday, I had not changed, and had to call it the series short, because I was starting to sweat, and was fearing repercussions from going to an hour and fifteen minute department meeting hot, sweaty and smelly. Today I was prepared to go the distance. And go the distance we did. Game after game after game. Legs burning, lungs aching, and the rest of me happy as a clam because of it. Sadly we finally had to call it quits, and to the coach's shower I went to take the coldest shower I could stand.

Life is good when gym class is all in a days work...and I think there may even be a floor hockey unit later on...

D.E.A.F., Inc. Holiday Party

2007-12-09T15:17:00.000-05:00

So into Allston I went to a D.E.A.F., Inc. holiday party. Always seeking opportunities to practice my sign language and to further get to know the Deaf community, in I went on a fine Saturday afternoon. I was nervous on the way in, not feeling confident with my signing and frustrated with traffic, but I kept on going and soon I found myself at the party, with a few people that I recognized. It was a low key gathering, which I always prefer, and there were several Deaf Blind folks there.

I sat down with my lunch next to a woman and across from two men. I had noticed that two of them were Deaf Blind and having never comnmunicated with someone who is both Deaf and Blind before, in my head I said, "Well, here goes..."

It was an incredible experience. I sat down and the woman quickly signed to her friend, that she wanted to know who was sitting at the table. Seeing this, I introduced myself to her friend, who then introduced me to her. She then put her hand out, palm down, and I put my hand just below hers, touching her palm. I signed normally to her all the while her hand resting lightly on my right hand wherever it went, feeling the handshape, the palm orientation, the location, and movement of my hand. She understood everything. Then she signed to me and when it was my turn again, she would put her hand or hands out. It was really an amazing. I later watched two Deaf Blind folks chatting. One pair of hands on top, then they would switch. They carried on like old friends, which they seemed to be, laughing and smiling and having a great time together. I couldn't help but smile along.

School continues to go well. Slow improvements come, but always I want more. My days are very busy and it seems most days I come home and go to sleep...then get up and go back to school. All the things and side projects that I thought I would have time for while spending a year at home are not getting done. They have all been pushed aside for the time being. All focus and energies go toward the language and the community. And slowly, ever so slowly, it's coming along.

Happy Holidays to all.